BABACO

Carica pentagona Heilborn

Caricaceae

Common Names:Babaco, Mountain Papaya.

Related Species: Papayuelo (Carica goudotiana) Orange Papaya (C. monoica), Papaya (C. papaya), Toronchi (C. pubescens), Chamburro (C. stipulata). Hybrids of Babaco and other Carica spp. also exist.

Distant Affinity: Papaya Orejona (Jacartia mexicana), Mamao (J. spinosa).

Origin: The babaco is presumed to have originated in the central south highlands of Ecuador and is believed to be a naturally occurring hybrid of Carica stipulata and C. pubescens. It has been cultivated in Ecuador since before the arrival of Europeans. In more recent times the babaco was introduced into New Zealand where it is grown commercially. In Israel and other parts of the Middle Eastern the plant is also being grown commercially in greenhouses. Steve Spangler is credited with introducing the babaco to southern California in the 1970’s.

Adaptation: The babaco thrives in a cool subtropical climate, free of frost. In California it grows in coastal areas of the southern part of the state and with some protection as far north as the San Francisco Bay area. With some shade it will grow in the warmer interior regions, but high temperatues and low humidity may result in sunburned fruit and immature fruit drop. The babaco is much more tolerant of cool, damp winters than the papaya. It will withstand temperatures to about 28° F, although it may lose most of its leaves. The babaco is ideally suited to container culture and also excellent for greenhouses.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habits: The babaco is a small, herbaceous shrub, that grows to about 6 feet in height, with an erect softwood trunk lined with leaf scars typical of other caricas. The plant rarely branches but shoots often appear around the base. The thickness of the trunk is associated with the vigor of the plant.

Foliage: The moderately large, palmate leaves have prominent ribs and veins and are on long hollow petioles that radiate from the trunk. The average life of a leaf is 4 to 6 months. During the cold winter months the leaves degenerate and are gradually shed.

Flowers: Flowers form on the newly developing trunk during the growth phase of the tree. Usually the thicker the trunk, the more prolific the flowering will be. The flowers, usually solitary on the end of a long pendulous stalk, arise from every leaf axil. The flowers are all female.

Fruit: Babaco fruits set parthenocarpically, as there are no seeds present in the fruit. The young fruits set and grow immediately after flowering, reaching a maximum expansion phase during October-November. At this point the fruits reach a length of about 12 inches long and 8 inches wide. They are distinctly five-sided, rounded at the stem end and pointed at the apex. The onset of maturity is recognized by the yellowing of the fruit, first in patches on the sides of the fruit and gradually extending over the total area of the fruit during the following weeks. Fruits ripen in progression from the lower fruits, usually the heaviest, to those higher up the trunk. The flesh of the babaco is very juicy, slightly acidic and low in sugar. The unique flavor has been described as having overtones of strawberry, pineapple and papaya. The smooth, thin skin is also edible.

CULTURE

Location: Babacos like a warm location protected from winds. They will grow and fruit in shady locations but prefer a sunny spot. The smallish plants fit nicely in many parts of the yard, and with their broad green leaves and vertically held fruit add an exotic touch to the landscape.

Soils: Babacos prefer a light, fertile, well-drained soil. Although not as fussy about cold, wet soils as the papaya, the plants perform best in moderately dry winter conditions. Like papayas, the babaco does not tolerate salty water or soil.

Irrigation: Adequate rainfall or irrigation is essential during the growing phase of the babaco. A plant that has been injured by frost is susceptible to root rot.

Fertilization: During the growing season the babaco needs regular applications of nitrogen fertilizers. Feed monthly and adjust to the plant’s response. Composted chicken manure makes a good mulch.

Pruning: To obtain maximum quality and size of fruit only one trunk should be allowed to grow. Shoots that form around the base of the plant should be removed, although a second shoot is allowed to develop from about September. At this time of the year the shoot will grow rapidly, but will not initiate flower buds. To control the height of the tree it is not recommended to crop one trunk for more than one or two years. The trunk that bore the current season fruits is cut back to the stump, to the point where the second shoot was left the year before. This second shoot will now become the new plant.

Frost Protection: Babacos prefer frost-free conditions, but the smallish plants can easily be tucked into protected areas such as next to a building under the eaves or a favorable spot in the patio. Otherwise they can be protected by plastic sheeting, etc. draped over a frame around the plants. Potted specimens can be moved to a frost-secure area.

Propagation: Since babacos are seedless, they must be propagated asexually. Wood for propagation is taken from the parent plant by cutting the entire trunk diagonally about 1 foot from the ground (or back to the second shoot), and making 1 foot cutting lengths from it. This should be done after fruiting but before the next flush of growth. The cuttings are then dipped in a fungicide bath and the rooting end dipped in a rooting hormone. The cuttings are then set vertically in a low-moisture medium such as sand or sandy loam to form callouses. With the first sign of roots and the beginnings of new leaves, they can be planted out, about 8 inches below ground level. Within 15 months these new plants are producing fruit.

Pests and diseases: It is important to start with virus-free material. During moist spells fungal diseases can affect the leaves, but this is seldom a problem in California. Other diseases include powdery mildew and Phytophthora root rot. The major pests affecting the babaco are the two spotted mite, Tetranychus uraticae and the strawberry mite, Tetranychus atlanticus. Control can be difficult since most miticides are phytotoxic to babaco leaves. Predatory mites do give reasonable control. Slugs and the California brown snail can damage the fruit and must be controlled. The plants are attractive to deer who will consume most of the foliage and young fruits.

Harvest: Commercially grown babaco fruit is picked at the first sign of yellow coloration. Fruit picked at this stage will ripen fully off the plant. In home plantings the fruit can be left on until almost fully yellow but may sometimes fall and bruise. To harvest, the fruit stalk can be snipped off with a clipper, or the fruit can be removed by lifting the fruit and then pulling away it from the stalk. Ripe fruit takes careful handling.

The fruit is best eaten fresh when fully ripe. Being seedless the whole fruit can be eaten, including the skin. A little sugar enhances its flavor. Pieces of the fruit can also be added to fruit salads. Babaco fruits make a quick and interesting drink when processed in a blender with a little honey or added sugar. With the addition of ice cream or frozen yogurt it becomes a tasty milkshake. The fruit also makes an excellent preserve, and can be made into a pie when mixed with other fruits.

One of the most attractive features of the babaco is its excellent keeping quality. Even without cool storage the fruit has a shelf-life of four weeks. Fruit that has been damaged will still keep a long time, since the damaged part will not spread to healthy tissue. Cool storage extends the life of the fruit. Optimum storage temperature is 40° F.

Commercial Potential: The babaco is grown commercially in Ecuador and as an export fruit in New Zealand. There is limited production in southern California where is is sometimes found in Farmers’s Markets and specialty markets. The fruit has several factors in its favor and with adequate promotion could find a wider marketing niche. The fruit is attractive when sold in a yellow ripe stage, and stores well even after it has been cut. In addition the plants are highly productive and not culturally demanding. Prunings are used for cuttings which become producing plants within a year. The compactness and productivity of the babaco plants makes it a good candidate for greenhouse production.

CULTIVARS

There are no recognized babaco cultivars at this time, although improved varieties are possible with proper selection. Hybrids with Carica pubescens produce edible fruit, but nothing as good as the babaco.

FURTHER READING

• Badillo, Victor M. Monographia de la Familia Caricaceae. Universidad Central de Venezuela. 1971.
• Morton, Julia F. Fruits of Warm Climates. Creative Resources Systems, Inc. 1987. p. 346.
• National Research Council. Lost Crops of the Incas. National Academy Press. 1989.
• Tankard, Glen. Tropical Fruit. Viking O’Neil. 1987. pp. 22-23.

© Copyright 1997, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc.
Questions or comments? Contact us.

APRICOT

Rosaceae Prunus armeniaca

Apricot performance in low chill locations

Common Names: Apricot, damasco, albaricoque

Related Species: Plum (such as European plum, Prunus domestica, or the Japanese plum, Prunus salicina), Peach (Prunus persica), Cherry (such as wild cherry, Prunus avium, sour cherry, Prunus cerasus), Almond (Prunus dulcis), or the Capulin (prunus salicifolia).

Distant affinity: Rose family fruit, apples, pears, quince, strawberry, blackberry.

Origin: Eastern Asia, Armenia, Northern China

Adaptation: Sites with cool or cold winters and warm summers. Spring frost can damage buds and blossoms. High heat (deserts) can damage fruit.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: Deciduous trees 15 to 25 feet tall and wide. Dwarfing root stock available. Planting near vegetable garden increases disease risk (verticillium).

Foliage: Green ovate leaves, lightly serrated 2-4 inches long on 1½

inch petioles.

Flowers: Single white or pink rose type flowers, mostly on spurs. Some cultivars need a pollinator.

Fruit: Ping pong ball to slightly larger than a golf ball size fruit, red, orange or yellow in color. Single hard seed is smooth and free or semi-free. Fruit has midline indentation. In heavy crop years fruit should be thinned (2 inch separation).

CULTURE

Location: Plant in low ground or where cold air collects.

Frost Protection: Apricots need winter chill but spring frost can damage buds and flowers.

Sun Protection: From the ground up 15 inches (+/-), wrap young tree trunks with foil, newspaper, or apply white wash. This will protect from sunburn until bark matures.

Soil: Deep loam or clay loam but fairly adaptable.

Irrigation: Deep water regularly in spring, summer and fall. Cover much of the ground under the canopy. Do not put water on the trunk. Allow the soil surface to dry between irrigations. Mulching will help conserve moisture but keep the mulch away from the trunk.

Fertilization: The preferable fertilization schedule is small amounts of fertilizer several times a year. The first application should be applied in late winter (February or March). Use a light application of NPK 8-8-8 (or ½ recommended 15-15-15). After fruit harvest, apply a stronger nitrogen such as 5-1-1, and in late summer a light dressing of a higher phosphorous (5-10-5) to promote spring blossom. Keep nitrogen low to avoid forcing new growth. The potassium is adequate with this schedule. This fertilization schedule provides good nutrition. Trees will produce somewhat less with less nutrition. Too little fertilizer is better than too much.

Pruning: Prune young trees when dormant to develop 3 or 4 scaffold limbs. Fruiting spurs need light so keep center of tree open. Leave enough new wood to protect fruit from sunburn.

Pests and diseases: Brown rot, shot hole and Eutypa dieback, occasional codling moth attack. Do not spray apricot trees with lime sulphur.

Propagation: Varieties may be grafted on peach, apricot or myrobalan plum rootstocks. Seedling apricots are slow to produce fruit and quality is unpredictable.

Harvest: Please see notes in “Cultivars” section below.

Commercial Potential: This fruit is currently a commercial crop in areas of adequate chill hours.

CULTIVARS

Listed in approximate order of maturity. Time of maturity varies year to year. Most data collected from San Diego County, i.e., performance data for low chill areas (400 hrs. or less below 45◦F).

*Recommended

NOTES

This list consists of cultivars with at least 3 years of production history. Several additional cultivars are in evaluation as of the 2012 season. Data on those trees should be available in 2 years. Dates shown here will often vary from dates in Central California.

AVOCADO

Persea species

Lauraceae

Common Name: Avocado, Alligator Pear (English); Aguacate, Palta (Spanish)

Origin: The avocado probably originated in southern Mexico but was cultivated from the Rio Grande to central Peru before the arrival of Europeans.

Species: Guatemalan (Persea nubigena var. guatamalensis L. Wms.), Mexican (P. americana var. drymifolia Blake), West Indian (P. americana Mill. var. americana). Hybrid forms exist between all three types.

Related species: Coyo (Persea schiedeana Nees), Anay (Beilschmiedia anay Kosterm)

Adaptation: Avocados do well in the mild-winter areas of California, Florida and Hawaii. Some hardier varieties can be grown in the cooler parts of northern and inland California and along the Gulf Coast. The northern limits in California is approximately Cape Mendocino and Red Bluff. Avocados do best some distance from ocean influence but are not adapted to the desert interior. West Indian varieties thrive in humid, tropical climates and freeze at or near 32° F. Guatemalan types are native to cool, high-altitude tropics and are hardy 30 – 26° F. Mexican types are native to dry subtropical plateaus and thrive in a Mediterranean climate. They are hardy 24 – 19° F. Avocados need some protection from high winds which may break the branches. There are dwarf forms of avocados suitable for growing in containers. Avocados have been grown in California (Santa Barbara) since 1871.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: The avocado is a dense, evergreen tree, shedding many leaves in early spring. It is fast growing and can with age reach 80 feet, although usually less, and generally branches to form a broad tree. Some cultivars are columnar, others selected for nearly prostrate form. One cultivar makes a good espalier. Growth is in frequent flushes during warm weather in southern regions with only one long flush per year in cooler areas. Injury to branches causes a secretion of dulcitol, a white, powdery sugar, at scars. Roots are coarse and greedy and will raise pavement with age. Grafted plants normally produce fruit within one to two years compared to 8 – 20 years for seedlings.

Foliage: Avocado leaves are alternate, glossy, elliptic and dark green with paler veins. They normally remain on the tree for 2 to 3 years. The leaves of West Indian varieties are scentless, while Guatemalan types are rarely anise-scented and have medicinal use. The leaves of Mexican types have a pronounced anise scent when crushed. The leaves are high in oils and slow to compost and may collect in mounds beneath trees.

Flowers: Avocado flowers appear in January – March before the first seasonal growth, in terminal panicles of 200 – 300 small yellow-green blooms. Each panicle will produce only one to three fruits. The flowers are perfect, but are either receptive to pollen in the morning and shed pollen the following afternoon (type A), or are receptive to pollen in the afternoon, and shed pollen the following morning (type B). About 5% of flowers are defective in form and sterile. Production is best with cross-pollination between types A and B. The flowers attract bees and hoverflies and pollination usually good except during cool weather. Off-season blooms may appear during the year and often set fruit. Some cultivars bloom and set fruit in alternate years.

Fruits: West Indian type avocados produce enormous, smooth round, glossy green fruits that are low in oil and weigh up to 2 pounds. Guatemalan types produce medium ovoid or pear-shaped, pebbled green fruits that turn blackish-green when ripe. The fruit of Mexican varieties are small (6 – 10 ounces) with paper-thin skins that turn glossy green or black when ripe. The flesh of avocados is deep green near the skin, becoming yellowish nearer the single large, inedible ovoid seed. The flesh is hard when harvested but softens to a buttery texture. Wind-caused abrasion can scar the skin, forming cracks which extend into the flesh. “Cukes” are seedless, pickle-shaped fruits. Off-season fruit should not be harvested with the main crop, but left on the tree to mature. Seeds may sprout within an avocado when it is over-mature, causing internal molds and breakdown. High in monosaturates, the oil content of avocados is second only to olives among fruits, and sometimes greater. Clinical feeding studies in humans have shown that avocado oil can reduce blood cholesterol.

CULTURE

Location: Avocados will grow in shade and between buildings, but are productive only in full sun. The roots are highly competitive and will choke out nearby plants. The shade under the trees is too dense to garden under, and the constant litter can be annoying. In cooler areas plant the tree where it will receive sun during the winter. Give the tree plenty of room–up to 20 feet. The avocado is not suitable for hedgerow, but two or three trees can be planted in a single large hole to save garden space and enhance pollination. At the beach or in windy inland canyons, provide a windbreak of some sort. Once established the avocado is a fairly tough tree. Indoor trees need low night temperatures to induce bloom. Container plants should be moved outdoors with care. Whitewashing the trunk or branches will prevent sunburn.

Soil: Avocado trees like loose, decomposed granite or sandy loam best. They will not survive in locations with poor drainage. The trees grow well on hillsides and should never be planted in stream beds. They are tolerant of acid or alkaline soil. In containers use a planting mix combined with topsoil. Plastic containers should be avoided. It is also useful to plant the tub with annual flowers to reduce excess soil moisture and temperature. Container plants should be leached often to reduce salts.

Irrigation: Avocado trees may not need irrigation during the winter rainy season, but watch for prolonged mid-winter dry spells. Over irrigation can induce root which is the most common cause of avocado failure. To test to see if irrigation is necessary, dig a hole 9 inches deep and test the soil by squeezing. If it is moist (holds together), do not irrigate; if it crumbles in the hand, it may be watered. Watch soil moisture carefully at the end of the irrigating season. Never enter winter with wet soil. Avocados tolerate some salts, though they will show leaf tip burn and stunting of leaves. Deep irrigation will leach salt accumulation.

Fertilization: Commence feeding of young trees after one year of growth, using a balanced fertilizer, four times yearly. Older trees benefit from feeding with nitrogenous fertilizer applied in late winter and early summer. Yellowed leaves (chlorosis) indicate iron deficiency. This can usually be corrected by a chelated foliar spray of trace elements containing iron. Mature trees often also show a zinc deficiency.

Frost Protection: It is important to choose a cultivar that is hardy in your area. Mexican types are the best choice for colder regions. Plant above a slope for air drainage, or near the house for added protection. In youth, protect with rugs, towels and such spread overhead on a frame. For further protection heat with light bulbs and wrap the trunk with sponge foam. These measures also permit tender cultivars to become established in borderline locations; established trees are much hardier than young ones. The upper branches can also be top worked with hardy Mexican types, which will protect a more tender cultivar on lower branches, as well as serving as a pollinator. Harvest fruit before the frost season begins. Cold-damaged fruit turns black. Avocados are often in bloom at the time of frost and the flowers are killed, but the tree tends to rebloom. This is especially true of Mexican types.

Pruning: Columnar cultivars require pinching at early age to form a rounded tree. Others need no training. Current orchard practice avoids staking. The best results are obtained by fencing the tree with plastic mesh for the first two to three years. Container and dwarf trees will need constant staking. The skirts of avocado trees are sometimes trimmed to discourage rodents, otherwise the trees are usually never pruned. Branches exposed to sun by defoliation are extraordinarily susceptible to sunburn and will surely die. Such branches should always be whitewashed. It is better to avoid any pruning. Most cultivars are ill-adapted to espalier. They are too vigorous. Avocado fruit is self-thinning.

Propagation: Desired clonal rootstocks can be be propagated by a method known as the etiolation technique. The largest seed are planted in gallon cans and the seedlings are then grafted to a root rot tolerant clonal scion. When the stem of the graft reaches about 1/4 inch in diameter, the top is cut off leaving a whorl of buds just above the graft. A 4 inch band of black tar paper is formed into an extension of the can and filled with vermiculite and placed in a dark box with high temperature and humidity. When growth is some 3 – 4 inches above the vermiculite, the plant is removed into the light where the upper portion quickly assumes a green color. The tar paper collar is removed, the shoot is severed from the seed and then placed in flats where the cuttings are rooted in the conventional manner. Any seed may also be used for rootstock, but Mexican types make the strongest growth and are the most often used. Plant cleaned seeds as soon as they are ripe. The seedling plants are ready to bud the following year. Budding is done in January, when suitable buds are available. Larger stocks are worked by bark grafts in the spring. Scions are collected Dec – Jan after the buds are well-formed. Paint and cover the graft with a moistened plastic bag and place a vented paper bag over the whole.

Pests and diseases: Rats and squirrels will strip the fruit. Protect with tin trunk wraps. Leaf-rolling caterpillars (Tortrix and Amorbia) may destroy branch terminals. Avocado Brown Mite can be controlled by powdered sulfur. Six-spotted Mite is very harmful; even a small population can cause massive leaf shedding. A miticide may be required if natural predators are absent. Snails can be a problem in California.

Two fungi and one virus cause more damage than any pests. Dothiorella (Botryosphaeria ribis) canker infects the trunk, causing dead patches that spreads to maturing fruit, causing darkened, rancid smelling spots in the flesh. Flesh injury begins after harvest and is impossible to detect on outside. Mexican types are immune to trunk cankers but the fruit is not. The disease is rampant near the coast and has no economical control. Root Rot (Phytophthora cinnamomi) is a soil-borne fungus that infects many plants, including avocados. It is a major disease problem in California. Select disease-free, certified plants and avoid planting where avocados once grew or where soil drainage is poor. The disease is easily transported by equipment, tools and shoes from infected soils. Once a tree is infected (signs include yellowing and dropping leaves), there is little that can be done other than cut back on water. Sun Blotch is a viral disease that causes yellowed streaking of young stems, mottling and crinkling of new leaves and occasional deformation of the fruit. It also causes rectangular cracking and checking of the trunk, as if sunburned. It has no insect vector but is spread by use of infected scions, contaminated tools and roots grafted with adjacent trees. It is important to use virus-free propagating wood.

Harvest: The time of harvest depends upon the variety. Commercial standards requires fruit to reach 8% oil content before harvesting. Mexican types ripen in 6 – 8 months from bloom while Guatemalan types usually take 12 – 18 months. Fruits may continue enlarging on the tree even after maturity. Purple cultivars should be permitted to color fully before harvest. Guatemalan types can be stored firm, at 40 – 50° F. for up to six weeks. Mexican types discolor quickly and require immediate consumption.

Miscellaneous: Leaf and seed extracts have been used for a variety of medical application, including treatment of diarrhea and dysentery and as an antibiotic.

CULTIVARS

Anaheim

Origin Otto Keup, Anaheim, 1910. Guatemalan. Tree columnar, productive. Fruit very large, to 24 oz., elongated glossy green, seed small, oil 15%. Tenderest of cvs. for coast only. To 32° F. Season July.

Bacon

Origin James Bacon, Buena Park, 1954. Hybrid. Tree broad, productive. Fruit small to medium, to 12 oz., round-ovoid, smooth green. Flesh only fair, almost colorless,seed cavity molds rapidly. Hardy for Bay Area, Central Valley. To 25° F. Season December.

Creamhart

Origin Orton Englehart, Escondido,1969. Hybrid. Seedling of Reed. Tree open, upright, branching. Fruit medium, to 14 oz., skin green flesh extraordinarily pale,buttery, nearly fiberless. Not alternate bearing. To 30° F. Season April – July.

Duke

Origin Bangor (Oroville), 1912. Tree vigorous, open, resists wind. Fruit small, 12 oz., elongated pyriform, waxy green, skin paper-thin. Flesh excellent, oil 21%. Seeds commonly used for rootstocks, resist root rot. Extraordinarily hardy, recovers quickly from freeze, to 22° F. Season October

Fuerte

Origin Atlixco, Mexico, intro. Carl Schmidt, 1911. Hybrid. Tree open, spreading, tall. Fruit large to very large, 16 oz., elongated pyriform, skin dark green with numerous small raised pale spots, waxy bloom, skin thin. Flesh good, oil 18%, seed medium. Formerly standard cv. of California industry. Tends to bear in alternate years, unproductive near coast or in north. To 26° F. Season December.

Ganter

Origin Albert Rideout, Whittier, 1905. Mexican. Tree tall, spreading, open. Fruit small, to 8 oz., long pyriform, skin paper-thin, pale waxy green. Flesh good, oil 18%. Oldest avocado cv. in California. Quite hardy, for Central Valley floor and far north. To 23° F. Season October.

Gwen

Origin Riverside, Robert Whitsell, 1982, patented. Seedling of Hass. Tree dwarf, to 14 ft., low vigor. Fruit small, to 8 oz., a Hass look alike, elongated green, flesh good. Most productive of dwarf avocados, best dwarf for outdoor use, also for containers, greenhouse. Not hardy, to 30° F. Season February – October.

Hass

Origin Rudolph Hass, La Habra Heights, 1926. Seedling of Lyon. Guatemalan. Tree rather open, not tall. Fruit medium, to 12 oz., pyriform, skin thick, pebbled, coppery purple. Flesh good, oil 19%, seed fairly small. Currently the standard of the industry. To 26° F. Season July.

Jim

Origin John Reinecke, San Diego, 1939. Hybrid. Tree upright. Fruit small to medium, to 10 oz., olive green, with long neck, oil 12%. To 26° F. Season June.

Lula

Origin George Cellon, Miami, 1919. West Indian. Tree dense, broad, prolific. Fruit round, slightly pyriform, to 20 oz., slightly rough glossy green, oil 12%. Only West Indian type recommended for California, rather hardy, to 28° F. Season April.

Lyon

Origin R. Lyon, Hollywood, 1908. Central American. Tree columnar, slow growing, difficult to propagate, often scion incompatible. Fruit commonly over 24 oz., dark glossy green, rough, pyriform, oil 21%. High quality. Tender, to 30° F. Season April.

Mexicola

Origin Coolidge, Pasadena, 1910. Mexican. Tree tall and spreading, vigorous. Fruit small, 5 oz., round pyriform, skin paper-thin, purplish black, waxy bloom. Flesh highest quality, seed very large. Hardiest cv. known, seedlings useful as rootstocks in far north. Recovers rapidly from freeze. Defoliated at 20° F, trunk killed at 17° F. Season September.

Mexicola Grande

Seedling selection of Mexicola. Mexican. Tree tall and spreading similar to Mexicola. Fruit 15% – 25% larger than Mexicola and somewhat rounder in shape with better seed/flesh ratio. Skin paper-thin, purple-black. High quality flesh with high oil content. Hardy to about 18° F.

Murrieta Green

Origin Colima, Mexico, intro. by Juan Murrieta, 1910. Hybrid. Tree slow growing, easily trained. Fruit large, to 18 oz., oblate, green, resembling Fuerte. Flesh exceptional, oil 18%. Only cv. readily adaptable to espalier. For coast and intermediate. To 27° F. Season September.

Nabal

Origin Antigua, Guatemala, intro. by F.W. Popenoe, 1917. Tree dense, columnar. Fruit handsome, large pyriform, to 17 oz., green, skin resembles Fuerte. Flesh exceptionally high quality, oil 16%. Young trees require pinching to force low branching. Tends to bear alternate years. To 27° F. Season July.

Pinkerton

Origin John D. Pinkerton, Saticoy, 1972, patented. Guatemalan. Tree dense, productive. Fruit variable in size, 7 to 12 oz., skin thick, pebbled, green. To 30° F. Season November.

Queen

Origin Antigua, Guatemala, intro. by E.E. Knight, 1914. Guatemalan. Tree broad. Fruit exceptionally large, to 24 oz., elongated, purple, flesh excellent, oil 13%. Fairly hardy for large cv., worth trying in Bay Area. To 26° F. Season August.

Puebla

Origin Atlixco, Mexico, intro. by Carl Schmidt, 1911. Mexican. Tree broad, high branching. Fruit beautiful, medium to large, to 18 oz., ovoid, skin thin, lacquered maroon purple. Flesh excellent, oil 20%. Least hardy Mexican type, to 29° F. Season December.

Reed

Origin James S. Reed, Carlsbad, 1948. Hybrid. Tree columnar. Fruit large, to 15 oz., round, skin thick, pebbled, green. Flesh good. To 30° F. Season August.

Rincon

Origin Carlsbad, Sam Thompson, 1944. Hybrid. Tree small. Fruit small to medium, 10 oz., green, resembling Fuerte. Flesh good. For coast, Santa Barbara and Ventura. To 27° F. Season January.

Ryan

Origin Albert Rideout, Whittier, 1927. Hybrid. Tree low, spreading. Fruit medium, to 14 oz., elongated, otherwise resembles Hass, skin thick, pebbled, purple. Flesh good, oil 25%. For Inland Empire, Bay Area. To 26° F Season August.

Spinks

Origin E. Bradbury, Bradbury, 1911. Hybrid. Tree spreading. Fruit medium, to 15 oz., round with small neck, tangelo shaped. Lacquered, coppery purple, outstanding flavor, oil 16%. To 27° F. Season April.

Topa Topa

Origin E.S. Thatcher, Ojai, 1912. Mexican. Tree columnar, vigorous. Fruit handsome, elongated pyriform, small to medium, 8 oz., smooth dark purple with white waxy bloom. Skin paper-thin. Flesh rather poor, oil 15%, seed elongated. Seedlings commonly used for rootstocks. Hardy, for far north. To 23° F.

Whitsell

Origin Robert Whitsell, Riverside,1982, patented. Hybrid. Hass seedling. Tree dwarf, to 12 feet, low vigor. Fruit small, 6 oz., elongated Hass look alike. Flesh good. Bears in alternate years. For containers and greenhouse only, not hardy. To 30° F. February to October.

Wurtz (syn. Littlecado)

Origin Roy Wurtz, Encinitas, 1935. Hybrid. Tree prostrate, difficult to train, low vigor. Fruit dark green, medium, to 10 oz. For containers and greenhouse. To 26° F. Season July.

Zutano

Origin R.L. Ruitt, Fallbrook, 1926. Hybrid. Tree columnar. Fruit small to medium, to 10 oz. elongated smooth green, resembles Fuerte but inferior, has fibers. Hardy for Bay Area, Central Valley. To 25° F. Season November.

FURTHER READING

• See generally: California Avocado Society Yearbook, 1915 to present.
• Davenport, T.L. Avocado Flowering, Hort. Reviews 8: 257-289.
• Koch, F.D. Avocado Grower’s Handbook, Bonsall Publications, 1983.
• Morton, Julia F. Fruits of Warm Climates. Creative Resources Systems, Inc. 1987. pp. 91-102.
• Ortho Books. All About Citrus and Subtropical Fruits. Chevron Chemical Co. 1985. pp. 16-19.

© Copyright 1996, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc.
Questions or comments? Contact us.

CRFG.ORG is grateful for your generosity. It will be using your donation to fund scholarships and research, and otherwise support the growing of rare fruit.

How do you find trees for rare fruit or even totally ordinary but delicious fruit?

The Nursery and Plant Providers list has been compiled as a resource in your exploration for new fruit trees.  CRFG Inc. does not endorse nurseries or businesses as a policy. Any nursery selling fruit trees may be listed. Most of these nurseries are small family owned operations. Call ahead to be sure they are open when you plan your visit.

Note:  this is very  much a work in progress. Please let us know of any additions or deletions you suggest.

Alden Lane Nursery
981 Alden Lane
Livermore. CA
(925)447-0280
http://www.aldenlane.com/

Atkins Nursery
3129 Reche Rd
Fallbrook, CA 92028
(760)728-1610

Bay Laurel Nursery
2500 El Camino Real
Atascadero CA 93422
Tel 805 466 3406
https://www.baylaurelnursery.com/

Berkeley Hort and Regans
4268 Decoto Rd
Fremont, CA
(510)526-4704
http://www.berkeleyhort.com/

Bonita Creek Nursery
3440 Proctor Valley Rd
Bonita, CA 91902
(619) 470-2005
http://www.bonitafruittrees.com

Brokaw Nursery
5501 Elizabeth Rd.
Ventura, CA
(805 )647-2262
http://www.brokawnursery.com/

Burnt Ridge Nursery
432 Burnt Ridge Road
Onalaska, Washington 98570
http://www.burntridgenursery.com/

Cal Poly Pomona Farm Store
4102 University Dr
Pomona, CA 91768
(909) 869-4906
http://www.cpp.edu/~farmstore/

California Tropical Fruit Tree
2081 Elevado Rd
Vista, CA 92084
(760) 434-5085
http://www.tropicalfruittrees.com

Carman’s Nursery
8470 Pharmer Rd
Gilroy, CA 95020-9463
(408) 847-2313
https://carmansnursery.com

Champa Nursery
4254 Tyler Ave
El Monte, CA 91731
(626) 213-7747
http://www.champanursery.com

CHC Tropical Nursery
2031 Desire Ave
Rowland Heights, CA 91748
(626) 586-0581
http://www.chctropicalnursery.com

City Farmers Nursery
3110 Euclid Ave
San Diego, CA 92105
(619) 284-6358
http://www.cityfarmersnursery.com

Clausens Nursery
3132 Blackwell Dr
Vista, CA 92084
(760) 724-3143
http://www.clausennursery.com

Emily Nursery
3439 W. MacArthur Blvd.
Santa Ana , CA
(714)557-3404

Exotica Nursery
2508 E Vista Way Ste B
Vista, CA 92084
(760) 724-9093
http://www.exoticararefruits.com

Fantasia Gardens
Lemon Grove, CA

Far West Nursery
2669 Mattison Ln.
Santa Cruz, CA
(831)476-8866
https://www.farwestnursery.com/

Flowerdale Nursery
2800 North Tustin Ave
Santa Ana, CA 92705
(714)633-9200
https://www.flowerdalenursery.com/

Four Winds Growers
42186 Palm Ave.
Freemont, CA
(510)656-2591
https://www.fourwindsgrowers.com/index.php

Fruitwood Nursery
Orleans CA 95556
http://www.fruitwoodnursery.com
Excellent source of scion wood

Ganter Nursery
3016 Fruitland Drive
Vista, CA
(760)768-8375
http://www.ganternursery.com/

Garden View Nursery
12901 Lower Azusa Rd
Irwindale, CA 91706
(626)337-4818
https://www.garden-view.com/nursery/

Green Thumb
Santa Clarita
23734 Newhall Ave
Santa Clarita, CA 91321
(661) 259-1071
http://www.greenthumb.com/

Green Thumb International
1899 S Victoria Ave
Ventura, CA 93003
(805) 642-8517
http://www.greenthumb.com/

Green Thumb Nursery
1019 W San Marcos Blvd
San Marcos, CA 92078
(760) 744-3822
http://www.greenthumb.com/

Green Thumb Nursery
Canoga Park
1812 Sherman Way
Canoga Park, CA 91303
(818) 340-6400
http://www.greenthumb.com/

Green Thumb Nursery
Lake Forest
23782 Bridger Rd
Lake Forest, CA 92630
(949) 837-3040
http://www.greenthumb.com/

Harmony Farm Supply & Nursery
3244 Gravenstein Ave.
Sebastopol, CA 95472
(707)823-9125
http://www.harmonyfarm.com/nursery-plants/

Hashimoto Nursery
1935 Sawtelle Blvd
Los Angeles, CA 90025
(310) 473-6232
http://www.hashimotonursery.com

Jamul Nursery
12931 Campo Rd
Jamul, CA 91935
(619) 569-7528

Kniffings Nursery
14940 Oak Creek Rd
El Cajon, CA 92021
(619) 561-0611
http://www.kniffingsnursery.com

Laguna Hills Nursery
1829 N. Tustin Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92705
(714)542-5600
http://www.lagunahillsnursery.com/

Lo Nursery/Perla Nursery/Arcadia Garden (all together)
4827 Peck Rd
El Monte, CA 91732
(626)442-4488

Lone Pine Gardens
6450 Lone Pine Road
Sebastopol, CA 95472
(707) 823 5024
http://www.lonepinegardens.com/

Louie’s Nursery
16310 Porter Ave,
Riverside, Ca
(951) 780-7841
http://www.louiesnursery.com/

Maddock Ranch Nursery
1163 Ranger Rd
Fallbrook, CA 92028
(760) 728-7172
http://www.maddockranchnursery.com

Menlo Growers
11605 New Ave
Gilroy, CA
(408)683-4862
http://www.menlogrowers.com/

Mimosa La Nursery
6270 Allston St
Los Angeles, CA 90022
(323) 722-4543
http://www.mimosala.com

Mission Hills Nursery
1525 Fort Stockton Dr
San Diego, CA 92103
(619) 295-2808
http://www.missionhillsnursery.com

Moon Valley Nursery
26334 Mesa Rock Rd
Escondido, CA 92026
(760) 309-4080
https://www.moonvalleynurseries.com/

Native Foods Nursery
81868 Lost Valley Ln
Dexter, OR 97431
(206) 356-0354
http://nativefoodsnursery.com/

Ong Nursery
2528 Crandall Dr
San Diego, CA 92111
(858) 277-8167
http://www.ongnursery.com

Orchard Nursery
4010 Mt Diablo Blvd.
Lafayette, CA
(925)284-4474
http://www.orchardnursery.com/

Papaya Tree Nursery
12422 El Oro Way
Granada Hills, CA 91344
(818) 363-3680
http://www.papayatreenursery.com

Paradise Nursery
10943 de Soto Ave
Chatsworth, CA 91311
(818) 701-5656
http://www.paradisenursery.com

Planting Justice
Oakland, CA 94603
510-756-6965
https://plantingjustice.org/
A 501(c)3 non-profit dedicated to food justice education, holistic re-entry from prison, permaculture, urban farms and training centers.

San Gabriel Nursery
632 S San Gabriel Blvd
San Gabriel, CA 91776
(626) 286-0787
http://www.sgnurserynews.com/site/

Suburban Food Farm
San Diego, CA 92120
https://www.facebook.com/SuburbanFoodFarm/

Tabuchi Nursery
2001 Sawtelle Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA
(310) 478-8338 Ask for Nabi

Temple Garden Center
4827 Peck Rd
El Monte, CA 91732
(626)452-0133
http://www.templenursery.com/

Terra Bella Nursery
302 Hollister St
San Diego, CA 92154
(619) 585-1118
http://www.terrabellanursery.com

Trees of Antiquity
20 Wellsona Road
Paso Robles, CA 93446
(805) 467-9909
http://www.treesofantiquity.com

Urban Tree Farm
3010 Fulton Road
Fulton, CA 95439
(707)544-4446
http://www.urbantreefarm.com/

Wally’s World Nursery
15888 Olde Highway 80
El Cajon, CA 92021
(619) 443-2794

Walter Andersens Nursery
3642 Enterprise St
San Diego, CA 92110
(619) 224-8271
http://www.walterandersen.com

Walter Andersens Nursery
12755 Danielson Ct
Poway, CA 92064
(858) 513-4900
http://www.walterandersen.com