JABOTICABA

Myrciaria spp.

Myrtaceae

Common Names: Jaboticaba, Jabuticaba, Guaperu, Guapuru, Hivapuru, Sabara, Ybapuru

Species: Myrciaria cauliflora Berg., M. jaboticaba Berg., M. tenella Berg., M. trunciflora Berg.

Related Species: Guavaberry, Rumberry (Myrciaria floribunda), Yellow Jaboticaba (M. glomerata), Camu-camu (M. paraensis). Blue Grape (M. vexator).

Distant affinity: Eugenias (Eugenia spp.), Feijoa (Feijoa sellowiana), Guavas (Psidium spp.).

Origin: All four of the jaboticaba species are native to the Minas Gerais region of Brazil. Some are also indigenous to other parts of Brazil, as well as areas in Bolivia, Paraguay, northeastern Argentina, Uruguay and Peru. In Brazil jaboticabas are cultivated from the southern city of Rio Grande to Bahia, and from the seacoast to Goyaz and Matto Grosso in the west. It was introduced into California (at Santa Barbara) about 1904.

Adaptation: In Brazil jaboticabas grow from sea-level to elevations of more than 3,000 ft. Different plants vary markedly in how much frost they can take without severe damage, probably reflecting the species that a given plant belongs to. Some plants can take 24° F or lower and survive; others are damaged at 27° F. In 1917, a young tree at Brooksville, Florida survived a temperature drop to 18° F. with only the foliage and branches killed back. In California jaboticabas have been successfully grown in San Diego, Spring Valley, Bostonia, Encinitas, South Los Angeles and as far north as the San Jose and San Francisco Bay areas. The plant makes a suitable container specimen.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: The jaboticaba is a slow growing large shrub or small, bushy tree. It reaches a height of 10 – 15 feet in California and 12 – 45 feet in Brazil, depending on the species. The trees are profusely branched, beginning close to the ground and slanting upward and outward so that the dense, rounded crown may attain an ultimate spread as wide as it is tall. The thin, beige to reddish bark flakes off much like that of the guava. The jaboticaba makes an attractive landscape plant.

Foliage: The evergreen, opposite leaves are lanceolate to elliptic, 1 – 4 inches in length and 1/2 – 3/4 inch wide. In color they are a glossy dark green with a leathery texture. The size, shape and texture varies somewhat from one species to another.

Flowers: The small yellow-white flowers dramatically emerge from the multiple trunks, limbs and large branches in groups of four. It has been reported from Brazil that solitary jaboticaba trees bear poorly compared with those planted in groups, which indicates that cross-pollination enhances productivity.

Fruits: Jaboticaba fruit is grape-like in appearance and texture but with a thicker, tougher skin. Most California fruit is dark purple to almost black in color. Averages size is one inch in diameter but can run from 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches, depending on species and variety. The gelatinous whitish pulp contains from one to four small seeds and has a pleasant, subacid flavor markedly similar to certain muscadine grapes. The skin has a slight resinous flavor that is not objectionable. Fruit may be produced singly or in clusters from the ground up all over the trunk and main branches, and the plant may fruit up to five times per year. Fresh fruit is delicious eaten out-of-hand and can be made into jellies, jams and wine. The skin is high in tannin and should not be consumed in large quantities over a long period of time.

CULTURE

Location: Jaboticaba trees are will take full sun or some shade and are small enough fit into many parts of the garden landscape. They are fairly wind tolerant but do not like salty sea air. Small, young trees do best with some protection.

Soil: Jaboticabas grow and fruit best in rich deep soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Although it is not well adapted to alkaline soils, it may be grown successfully by mulching and applying necessary nutrient sprays containing iron. The tree is not tolerant of salty or poorly drained soil. It has grown and borne well on sand in Central Florida.

Fertilization: For young plants half ratio fertilizer at monthly intervals will speed the plant’s very slow growth rate. Any well-balanced fertilizer applied three times per year will keep the plant healthy. Because of its shallow root system, it is suggested that a series of small holes be dug and filled with organic material around the plant’s base. The organic material can contain a balanced fertilizer which will be released during irrigation.

Irrigation: Water should be supplied as needed to maintain good soil moisture and prevent wilting, but constant flooding is undesirable. As the root system is somewhat shallow, irrigation is usually required when the upper inch or two of soil become dry.

Pruning: Pruning of jaboticabas is not usually needed, but when pruned as a hedge, the fruit is not destroyed since it is formed only on the inner branches and trunk.

Frost Protection: Although Jaboticabas can tolerate a few degrees of frost, they do best under frost-free conditions. In areas where frost may be a problem, providing them with some overhead protection or planting them next to a wall or a building may be sufficient. The smallish plants are also fairly easy to cover during cold snaps by placing carpeting, plastic sheeting, etc. over a frame around them. Potted specimens can be moved to a frost-secure area.

Propagation: Most seeds are polyembryonic, producing a plant that is true or close to the parent plant. The seeds germinate in about one month. A suggested potting mixture is 2 parts peat, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part coarse perlite, wood shavings or compost. Selected strains can be reproduced by inarching (approach grafting) or air-layering. Budding is not easily accomplished because of the thinness of the bark and the hardness of the of the wood. Veneer or side grafts are fairly successful. The grafted plant will fruit considerably earlier than a seedling. One may expect a grafted plant to produce fruit within three years, It can take from 8 to 15 years for a seedling to mature into a fruiting tree. It is this very slow growth that has kept this plant from becoming as popular as it deserves to be. Grafting older trees over to a different variety is inadvisable because it is the trunk and inner branches which produce the fruit. One would have to cut the tree back to a one-inch stump in order to change its fruiting nature.

When planting a jaboticaba, the crown (uppermost) roots should be 2 to 3 inches higher than the surrounding soil levels to provide water runoff. Peat, compost or rotted manure may be mixed with the soil from the planting hole to improve it. The soil should be a well-aerated mixture.

Pests and diseases: The fruit and flowers of some varieties are susceptible to a fungus caused rust during wet periods. Many flowers may desiccate during dry periods. Birds, raccoons and opossums are all attracted to fruiting trees. Deer will sometimes browse on the new foliage, but jaboticaba roots are not particularly attractive to gophers.

Harvest: Jaboticaba fruits are ready to harvest when they have developed a full color and are somewhat soft like a ripe grape. They are mostly eaten out-of-hand in South America. By squeezing the fruit between the thumb and forefinger, one can cause the skin to split and the pulp to slip into the mouth. The peeled fruits are often used for making jelly and marmalade, with the addition of pectin. Jaboticaba wine is made to a limited extent in Brazil.

Commercial Potential: Jaboticabas are a significant commercial fruit in Brazil and to a limited extent in other parts of South America where they thrive. They are a very tasty fresh fruit, and if they were more plentiful and were properly promoted, they could have a commercial future in this country. Their relative frost sensitivity combined with their slowness to fruit from seedlings is a major drawback to commercial success.

CULTIVARS

Branca

Produces large bright green flavorful fruit. Medium size and heavy producer.

Paulista

Large to very large fruit, skin thick and leathery. Flesh juicy, subacid to sweet. Quality very good, ripens relatively late. Resistant to rust. Tree strong growing, highly productive though it bears a single crop. Introduced into California in 1904.

Rajada

Fruit very large, skin green-bronze, thinner than that of Paulista. Flavor sweet and very good. Tree much like that of Paulista. Midseason.

Sabara

Most prized and most often planted tree in Brazil. Fruit is small, thin-skinned and sweet. Tree medium-sized, precocious and very productive. Produces 4 crops per year. Susceptible to flower and fruit rust.

Ponhema

Produces a large, leathery skinned fruit with a pointed apex. Must be fully ripe for eating raw. Mostly used in jellies or preserves. Tree is very large and a heavy producer.

FURTHER READING

• Morton, Julia F. Fruits of Warm Climates. Creative Resources Systems, Inc. 1987. pp. 371-374.
• Maxwell, Lewis S. and Betty M. Maxwell. Florida Fruit. Lewis S. Maxwell, Publisher. 1984. p. 69.
• Popenoe, Wilson. Manual of Tropical and Subtropical Fruits. Hafner Press. 1974. Facsimile of the 1920 edition. pp. 299-302.

 

---

.

---

© Copyright 1996, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc.
Questions or comments? Contact us.

ROSE APPLE

Syzygium jambos Alston

Myrtaceae

Common Names: Rose apple, Plum rose, Malabar plum.

Related Species: Water Apple (Syzygium aqueum), Blue Lilly Pilly (S. coolminianum), Water berry (S. cordatum), Jambolan, Java Plum (S. cumini), Water Pear (S. guineense), Malay Apple (S. malaccense), Java Apple (S. samarangense).

Distant affinity: Eugenias (Eugenia spp.), Guavas (Psidium spp.), Jaboticaba (Myrciaria spp.).

Origin: The rose apple is native to the East Indies and Malaya and is cultivated and naturalized in many parts of India, southeast Asia and the Pacific Islands. It was introduced into Jamaica in 1762 and became well distributed in the West Indies, and at low elevations, from southern Mexico to Peru. The tree was planted in Florida before 1877, and later in California.

Adaptation: Rose apples flourish in tropical or near-tropical climates, but the tree is proving to be hardy enough (to about 25° F) to be grown as an ornamental as far north in California as San Francisco. A beautiful specimen is thriving in the rather cold, windy rare fruit section of Quail Gardens in Encinitas. The rose apple is too large to make a suitable container plant

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: The rose apple is a highly decorative evergreen large shrub or small tree growing to about 20 feet with low spreading branches and pale-brown bark. It is wide spreading and often will be wider than its height.

Foliage: The lanceolate leaves are 4 to 9 inches in length by 2 inches wide, shiny and pink when they first emerge, fading to pale green. When mature they are slightly leathery and dark green. They are narrow and elliptic in shape and gradually taper to a point. The foliage is produced in a dense, luxuriant mass that hides all branches from view.

Flowers: Rose apple flowers are large and showy, white to pale cream and sweetly scented. They are 2 – 4 inches wide and consist mostly of about 300 conspicuous stamens to 1-1/3 inches long. There are usually 4 or 5 flowers together in terminal clusters. The flowers are a rich source of nectar for honeybees.

Fruit: The fruits are 1 – 2 inches wide, almost round or a little longer than wide. When ripe they may be greenish or dull-yellow flushed with pink. The skin is smooth and thin, and the firm flesh yellowish, sweet and rose scente. The texture is crisp, almost crunchy when the fruit is ripe and freshly picked. They contains one to four medium hard, round seeds, which rattle around inside the fruit. The seed as well as the roots are regarded as poisonous. Seedless, thick-fleshed fruits have been experimentally produced by treating opened flowers with growth regulators such as naphthoxy acetic acid.

CULTURE

Location: The rose apple needs a warm, sunny location that is not subject to significant frosts. It should also be kept in mind that the tree will occupy considerable space. The tree is moderately resistant to winds and tolerates cool, coastal conditions.

Soils: A deep, loamy, well-drained soil is best for the rose apple, but it also flourishes on sand and limestone with very little organic matter. In India it grows along streams. It is a favorite dooryard tree in the Peruvian part of the Amazon, where the trees are planted high enough to avoid the frequent floods.

Irrigation: The tree will tolerate semi-arid conditions, but prolonged dry spell are detrimental. It should have frequent irrigation when the weather is warm, and kept on the dry side when it’s cold.

Fertilization: The rose apple’s needs are unknown. If planted in a deep loamy soil it will thrive with very little other requirements. In less fertile soils a light semi-annual feeding of a balanced fertilizer, such as 6-6-6 NPK may be in order.

Pruning: Pruning of rose apples is not usually necessary. In some countries it is pruned drastically to promote dense growth and used as hedgerows around coffee plantations.

Frost Protection: The rose apple will take several degrees of frost but does best when planted in a protected spot on the south side of a wall or building. Young plants can be given overhead protection and covered when significant frosts are expected.

Propagation: Most rose apple trees are grown from seed. The seeds are polyembryonic and produce one to three sprouts, but seedlings are not uniform and there is considerable variation in fruit quality. The poorer fruits are dry and tasteless. Various vegetative propagation methods have been satisfactory. Treated semi-hardwood cuttings were moderately successful, while air-layering and veneer grafting of spring-flush scions have been successful to a greater degree. Fruiting takes about four years.

Pests and diseases: The rose apple has very few serious diseases and insect problems, although in humid climates the leaves are subject to a sooty mold from aphid excretions. Root rot caused by Fusarium spp., and mushroom root rot (Armillariella tabescens) can attack the tree.

Harvest: Rose apples bruise quite easily and are highly perishable. They must be freshly picked to be crisp. The fruit is only moderately interesting eaten out-of-hand, and is more often used in jellies and jams or preserved in combination with other fruits of more pronounced flavor. It is also cooked with sugar to make a dessert. When cooked with custards or puddings, they impart a rose flavor. The flowers can also be candied.

CULTIVARS

Insufficient tests have been made with strains from the West Indies, Mexico, and Guiana to tell if there are any significant differences. There are no known varieties.

FURTHER READING

• Morton, Julia F. Fruits of Warm Climates. Creative Resources Systems, Inc. 1987. pp. 383-836.
• Popenoe, Wilson. Manual of Tropical and Subtropical Fruits. Hafner Press. 1974. Facsimile of the 1920 edition. pp. 305-306

 

---

 

---

© Copyright 1996, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc.
Questions or comments? Contact us.

MUSCADINE GRAPE

Vitis rotundifolia Michx.

Vitaceae

Common Names: Muscadine, Bullace, Scuppernong, Southern Fox Grape.

Related Species: Summer grape (Vitis aestivalis), California Grape (V. californica), American Grape, Fox Grape (V. labrusca), River Bank Grape (V. riparia), Sand Grape (V. rupestris), European Grape (V. vinifera).

Origin: The muscadine grape is native to the southeastern United States, found in the wild from Delaware to the Gulf of Mexico and westward to Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, and Texas. Many older varieties were selections from the wild, but the Georgia Agricultural Experiment Station and the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture have introduced a number of improved varieties that have become standard cultivars. The earliest named variety was Scuppernong, found growing wild in northeastern North Caroline in 1810 by Dr. Calvin Jones. Scuppernong has become another name for all muscadine grapes. Commercial production of muscadine grapes is essentially limited to the U.S. Southeast.

Adaptation: Muscadines are well adapted to the warm, humid conditions of the southeastern U.S., where the American and the European grape do not prosper. Its lack of frost hardiness also limits it to this same region, except for some West Coast locations. The plant may be injured by minimum winter temperatures of 0° F, and should not be grown in regions where temperatures frequently go below 10° F. Muscadines can be grown in California and adjacent areas, but are not as well adapted as other cultivated grapes. In coastal areas of the West the lack of sufficient summer heat produces berries that tend to be small and generally lacking in sugar. The vines also do not fare well in the low humidity of many interior sections. On the other hand muscadines perform satisfactorily in the warmer grape growing regions of California, Oregon and Washington.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habits: Muscadines are vigorous, deciduous vines growing 60-100 ft. in the wild. Botanically, they differ in significant ways from other grapes and are placed in a separate sub-genus, Muscadinia. In contrast to most other grapes, muscadines have a tight, non-shedding bark, warty shoots and unbranched tendrils.

Foliage: The slightly lobed, 2-1/2 to 5 inch leaves are rounded to broadly ovate with coarsely serrate edges and an acuminate point. Dark green above and green tinged yellow beneath, the leaves are glossy on both sides, becoming firm and subglabrous at maturity.

Flowers: Muscadines are dioecious, with male and female flowers on different plants. The small, greenish flowers are borne in short, dense panicles. It appears that both wind and insects play a role in the pollination of the female flowers. Breeding and selection have produced self-fertile varieties with near-perfect flowers, which also serve as a pollen sources for the female plants. For best results a perfect-flowered vine should be within 25 ft. of female vines, or every third vine when planted in a mixed single row. Muscadines do not readily hybridize with other grape species.

Fruit: The fruit is borne in small, loose clusters of 3-40 grapes, quite unlike the large, tight bunches characteristic of European and American grapes. The round, 1 to 1-1/2 inch fruits have a thick, tough skin and contain up to 5 hard, oblong seeds. In color the fruits range from greenish bronze through bronze, pinkish red, purple and almost black. Sugar content varies from about 16% to 25% for the sweetest cultivars. The wild fruits and some older cultivars have a musky quality similar to American grapes, although not as pronounced. Modern cultivars have a unique fruity flavor with very little muskiness. The flavor and appearance of the dark colored muscadine fruits are remarkably similar to the jaboticaba.

CULTURE

Location: As with all grapes, muscadines need full sun with good air drainage. If hardiness is questionable, they can be planted against a south-facing wall.

Soil: Muscadine grapes grow well on a wide range of soils but best results are obtained from well-drained sandy loams with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. They will not tolerate low, wet ground. High pH can be corrected by adding sulfur and thoroughly working it into the soil. The vines are shallow rooted with most of their feeder roots in the top 12 in. of soil.

Irrigation: Regions with 30 inches of annual rainfall usually get enough rain to sustain the plants, unless summer dry spells stretch out past 60 days. In areas with less than that total, supplemental watering may be required. Drip irrigation is economical and satisfactory. In regions of dry summers, young vines may need watering during their first 2 or 4 growing seasons to help establish root systems.

Fertilizing: Nitrogenous fertilizers or complete fertilizers high in nitrogen are recommended. In the first year apply 1/2 lb. of 10-10-10 NPK after planting and then 1/8 lb. of ammonium nitrate in late May and again in early June. Spread the fertilizer in two parallel bands 12 to 14 inches from the trunk. Repeat in the second year, doubling the amounts and lengthening the bands to 48 inches. Thereafter, apply 2 to 4 pounds of the complete fertilizer each March and 1/2 pound of ammonium nitrate each June in a 6 foot long band beginning 1 foot from the tree.

Pruning: Annual pruning must be severe to keep new fruiting wood coming and to prevent vines from becoming tangled masses of unproductive wood. The basic framework of a vine consists of the trunk, permanent arms, and the fruiting spurs. Vines must be pruned each dormant season to maintain this framework. Current season shoots bear the fruit, but to be productive, these shoots must arise from buds set on last season’s growth, since shoots from older wood are generally sterile. It is important to leave the correct amount of fruiting wood.

Pruning is basically the same for all trellis systems. Only the arrangement of the fruiting arm is different. Two systems of training are used, the upright or vertical and the overhead or horizontal system. In the upright system, a 3-wire trellis is used, the lower wire being 2 ft. from the ground and the others 2 ft. apart. On the trellis the arms may be horizontal along the wires or fan-shaped from a low trunk. With this system the cane is taken to the top wire and the first year or when vigorous enough, and then topped to make it branch. The resulting laterals are trained along the wire to make the arms.

The overhead trellis provides more bearing surface per vine. The vines form a complete canopy about 7 ft. from the ground. The vines are trained to a single trunk 7 ft. tall with the arms radiating from the top of the trunk like spokes of a wheel. A mature vine will have about 8 arms. During the dormant season each year, cut back all shoot growth of the past summer to fruiting spurs 4 to 5 in. long. Remove shoots entirely that are not needed for spurs of fruiting arms. On young vines leave spurs of one year fruiting wood about 6 in. apart. As the vines get older, they develop clusters of spurs, or spur systems. Generally, thinning of these spurs is necessary after the fourth or fifth fruiting year. This thinning will force new spur growth to replace older spurs.

Propagation: Muscadines are commonly propagated by layering, as cuttings root with difficulty. The layering may be done at any time, but is commonly done in midsummer. Canes of the current season’s growth are bent down and covered with earth, the tips being left uncovered. By fall the cane will be developed roots and is severed from the parent. Seedling plants can also be grafted to desirable cultivars. Bench grafting is the method commonly used. Muscadine rootstock is not suitable for American and European grapes because of compatibility problems.

Pests and Diseases: Muscadine grapes are much less bothered by diseases than American and European grapes. They are essentially immune to phylloxera, nematodes and Pierce’s disease. In its native region several fungal diseases afflict the plant, including bitter rot (Melanoconium fuligineum) and powdery mildew (Uncinula necator) which attack the fruit, angular leaf spot (Mycosphaerella angulata) which affects the leaves and and black rot (Guignardia bidwellii) which attacks leaves, flower clusters and fruit. In the West only mildew is likely to be a problem. Leaf hoppers, aphids and flea beetles are occasional insect pests. As with all grapes, birds can also be a problem.

Harvest: In most cultivars the grapes in a given cluster ripen at different times and must be individually picked. The fruit also tends to fall when ripe. This tendency to drop can be used to harvest the ripe berries by spreading a tarpaulin or such on the ground and giving the vine a hard shake. Muscadine grapes start ripening mid September to late October. A mature vine can yield 20 lbs. or more of fruit. The grapes keep well, particularly when lightly refrigerated

Muscadine grapes are pleasant enough to eat out of hand despite the seeds and somewhat tough skin of some culivars. They come into their best, however, in making distinctive jellies, jams and juices. The grapes also make an excellent dessert wine with a flavor reminiscent of muscat wines.

Commercial Potential: In its home range in season the grapes are a common roadside item, where jellies, fresh juice and even wine are also often sold. If sufficient production were available, there is no reason that muscadine grapes elsewhere should not have as much market appeal as Concord grapes. In the West, however, they are likely to remain a home grown fruit.

CULTIVARS

Several dozen different muscadine cultivars are currently available from various sources with additional ones continuing to be developed. Some of the better known and better quality varieties are described below.

Female (Pistillate) Varieties

Black Beauty

Large fruit, 1-1/4 inch in diameter, skin black. Quality very good. Sugar content 24.5%. Ripens mid to late-season. Vine very vigorous. Clusters large. One of the best black muscadines ever developed.

Black Fry

Large fruit, up to 1-1/4 inch in diameter, skin black. Quality excellent, comparable with Fry. Sugar content 20%. Ripens uniformly, early to midseason. Vine very productive, disease resistant. Clusters large.

Darlene

Large fruit, 1-1/4 inch in diameter, skin bronze. Consistently large size throughout vine. Excellent, melting quality. Sugar content 24%.

Fry

Very large fruit, up to 1-3/8 inch in diameter, skin bronze. Quality very good before fully ripe. Sugar content 21%. Ripens midseason. Vine moderately vigorous. Production good. Susceptible to black rot. Clusters very large.

Higgins

Fruit very large, skin pink to reddish-bronze, moderately thick yet tender. Quality good when fully ripe. Sugar content 17%. Ripens mid to late-season. Vines moderately vigorous. Production heavy to over-productive. Clusters large, compact.

Jumbo

Large fruit, largest of any muscadine cultivar so far introduced, skin black. Quality good. Sugar content 16%. Ripens midseason to late. The fruit ripens irregularly over several weeks, making it an excellent cultivar for home use. Vine productive, disease resistant. Clusters large.

Scuppernong

Medium to large fruit, skin bronze, medium to thin. Flesh sweet with excellent and distinctive flavor. Sugar content 17%. Quality excellent. Ripens early. Vines vigorous, production good. Clusters medium.

Sugargate

Very large fruit, skin black. Excellent flavor. Sugar content 21%. Fruit ripens earliest of all varieties. Vines very vigorous, production good. Large clusters. One of the best of all dark fruited varieties for home use.

Summit

Large fruit, skin bronze. Skin thinnest of any large-fruited cultivar. Quality very good. Sugar content 20%. Ripens midseason. Vine vigorous, very productive. Disease resistant. Clusters large.

Supreme

Large fruit, 1-1/4 inch in diameter, skin black. Excellent quality. Sugar content 23%. Very vigorous, very productive. Disease resistant. Large clusters.

Sweet Jenny

Very large fruit, up to 1-1/2 inch in diameter, skin bronze. Quality very good. Sugar content 24%. Ripens early to midseason. Vine vigorous, very productive. Disease resistant. Clusters large.

Self-fertile Varieties

Carlos

Fruit small, 1/2 in. in diameter, skin bronze. Flavor pleasing, similar to Scuppernong. Sugar content 16 %. Vine vigorous, very productive. Hardy. Clusters intermediate. One of the best bronze muscadines for wine making.

Cowart

Fruit very large, skin black. One of the largest self-fertile cultivars. Quality very good. Sugar content 19%. Ripens medium early. Vine vigorous, productive. Disease resistance good. Clusters very large.

Dixieland

Fruit large, skin bronze. One of the largest of self-fertile cultivars. Flavor excellent. Sugar content 22%. Ripens midseason. Similar to Fry in flavor, color and size. Vine vigorous, productive.

Dixie Red

Large fruit, skin light red. Similar to Cowart in size. Quality very good. Sugar content 18-19%. Ripens in midseason. Vine vigorous, high yielding. Clusters very large, containing 12 to 30 berries.

Fry Seedless

Medium-sized fruit similar in color to Redgate. Sugar content 20%. Vigorous vine. Needs to be pollinated by another self-fertile cultivar. Tolerant to disease. Erratic yields.

Magnolia

Large fruit, skin white, smooth, attractive. Quality excellent. Sugar content 16%. Ripens in late midseason. Excellent for wine making. Vine vigorous, very productive. Clusters medium to large.

Nesbitt

Large fruit, up to 1-1/8 inch in diameter, skin black. Quality very good. Sugar content 20%. Ripens over a period of 4 or 5 weeks beginning in early September. Vine vigor medium, production very good. Clusters medium to large.

Noble

Medium-sized fruit, skin black. Quality good. Sugar content 18%. Ripens early to midseason. Vine vigor medium, very productive. Disease resistance good, except for powdery mildew. Clusters large. Excellent for making a red table wine.

Redgate

Medium-sized fruit, skin light to dark red. Quality very good. Ripens late to midseason, does not shatter. Uniform ripening of clusters. Clusters very large, up to 40 berries per cluster.

Regale

Medium-sized fruit, skin black. Quality good, high acid taste. Ripens early to midseason. Vine vigorous, production good. Clusters medium. Recommended for red wine, juice and jelly.

Sterling

Large fruit, skin yellow bronze. Quality good, similar to Scuppernong. Ripens late midseason. Vine moderately vigorous, productive. Disease resistance good. Clusters medium.

FURTHER READING

• Agricultural Research Service, Northeastern Region. Muscadine Grapes : a Fruit for the South. U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Farmers’ bulletin no. 2157. 1973.
• Dearing, Charles. Muscadine Grapes. U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, Farmers’ bulletin no. 1785. 1947
• Dearing, Charles. New Muscadine Grapes. U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Circular no. 769. 1948.
• Facciola, Stephen. Cornucopia: a Source Book of Edible Plants. Kampong Publications, 1990. pp. 393-395.
• Poling, E. Barclay. Muscadine Grapes in the Home Garden. North Carolina State University, North Caroline Cooperative Extension Service, Leaflet no. 8203. 1985.

---

 

---

© Copyright 1997, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc.
Questions or comments? Contact us.

FEIJOA

Feijoa sellowiana O.

Myrtaceae

Common Names: Feijoa, Pineapple Guava, Guavasteen.

Related Species: In more recent times Feijoa sellowiana has been renamed Acca sellowiana, but most sources still use the older name.

Distant affinity: Eugenias (Eugenia spp.), Guavas (Psidium spp.), Jaboticaba (Myrciaria spp.).

Origin: The feijoa is native to extreme southern Brazil, northern Argentina, western Paraguay and Uruguay where it is common in the mountains.

Adaptation: Feijoas prefer cool winters and moderate summers (80° to 90° F), and are generally adapted to areas where temperatures stay above 15° F. Flower production is poor in areas with fewer than 50 hours of chilling. The flavor of the fruit is much better in cool than in warm regions. Even thought the plants are relatively hardy, sudden fall frosts can damage ripening fruit and late spring frosts can destroy blossoms. Spring frost damage is most likely in mild-winter areas, where the plants are not completely hardened off and respond to warm spells by blooming early.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: The feijoa is a slow-growing evergreen shrub that can reach 15 ft. high and 15 ft. wide. The bark is pale gray and the spreading branches are swollen at the nodes and white-hairy when young. In addition to the fruit it provides, the shrub also doubles handsomely as a landscape specimen. When planted close together, the shrubs make a nice hedge, screen, or windbreak. Feijoas can also be espaliered or trained as a small tree (20 to 25 ft. tall) with one or more trunks. The wood is dense, hard, and brittle.

Foliage: The evergreen, thick, leathery leaves of the feijoa are opposite, short-petioled and bluntly elliptical. In size they range from 1 to 2-1/2 inches long and 5/8 to 1 inch wide. The leaves are smooth soft green on top and silvery underneath, flashing nicely in a gentle breeze.

Flowers: The 1 inch showy, bisexual flowers, borne singly or in a cluster, have long, bright red stamens topped with large grains of yellow pollen. Flowers appear late, from May through June. Each flower contains four to six fleshy flower petals that are white tinged with purple on the inside. These petals are mildly sweet and edible and can make a refreshing addition to spring salads. Birds eating the petals pollinate the flower.

It has been said that feijoa pollen is transferred by birds that are attracted to and eat the flowers, but bees are the chief pollinators. Most flowers pollinated with compatible pollen show 60 to 90% fruit set. Hand pollination is nearly 100% effective. Two or more bushes should be planted together for cross-pollination unless the cultivar is known to be self-compatible. Poor bearing is usually the result of inadequate pollination.

Fruits: The fruits range from 3/4 to 3-1/2 inches long and vary in shape from round to elongated pear shape, with the persistent calyx segments adhering to the apex. The waxy skin is dull blue-green to blue or grayish green, sometimes with a red or orange blush. Skin texture varies from smooth to rough and pebbly and is 3/16 to 5/8 inch thick. The fruit emits a strong long-lasting perfume, even before it is fully ripe. The thick, white, granular, watery flesh and the translucent central pulp enclosing the seeds are sweet or subacid, suggesting a combination of pineapple and guava or pineapple and strawberry, often with overtones of winter green or spearmint. There are usually 20 – 40, occasionally more, very small, oblong seeds hardly noticeable when the fruit is eaten.

CULTURE

Location: To protect the fruit from sunburn and other adverse effects of high temperature, choose a plant site away from hot, reflected sun. The feijoa can tolerate partial shade and slight exposure to salt spray. They also make an excellent foundation planting, either singly or as an informal hedge.

Soil: Feijoas will grow in a wide variety of soils. The best harvests, however, come from plants growing in well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. They are fairly salt tolerant, but salinity slows growth and reduces yields.

Irrigation: Foundation plantings of feijoas in summer dry California have survived for several years without supplemental water. Lack of water, however, will cause the fruit to drop. For quality harvests, water deeply on a regular basis, especially during flowering and fruit periods, and mulch the soil around the plants to protect the shallow roots.

Fertilization: Feijoas grow slowly and require only light applications of a complete fertilizer. A feeding of 8-8-8 NPK once every two months can speed growth.

Pruning: Pruning is not required to keep plants productive, but a light pruning in the summer after fruit is harvested will encourage new growth and increase yields the following year. Thinning the plant also permits easier harvesting. When grown as a hedge, the feijoa responds well to heavy pruning or shearing, but this reduces flower and fruit production.

Propagation: The feijoa grows easily from seed, but the seedlings are not always true to type. Seeds are separated by squeezing the seedy pulp into a container, covering with water, and letting the liquid stand for 4 days to ferment. The seeds are then strained out and dried before sowing. The seeds will retain viability for a year or more if kept dry. Germination takes place in 3 weeks. The plant fruits in 3 – 5 years from seed. Vegetative means are necessary to reproduce a variety. Young wood cuttings will root within two months with bottom heat and mist. Whip, tongue or veneer grafting methods are sometimes successful, as is air-layering and ground layering. Cutting-grown plants of named varieties are most desirable, because they can be trained in a variety of ways, and can be maintained as multitrunked shrubs without concern that suckers will develop into “rogue” branches.

Pests and diseases: The feijoa is remarkably pest and disease-resistant. It is occasionally attacked by by black scale in California, as well as fruit flies where that is a problem.

Harvest: In southern California the fruits ripen 4-1/2 to 6 months after flowers appear and in 5-1/2 to 7 months in the San Francisco area. As the fruit matures, its color changes almost imperceptibly. The best way is to allow them to fall from the tree. Giving the tree a shake and gathering the fruit from the ground every couple of days is the usual method of harvesting. To keep the fruit from bruising, place a tarp or other large cloth under the tree to catch them as they fall. Feijoas can also be picked when firm and mature and allowed to ripen at room temperature, although the quality will not be as good as tree ripened fruit. Mature fruit can be stored in the refrigerator for about a week, but after that the quality declines. Feijoas are mainly eaten fresh as a dessert or in salads, but can also be cooked in puddings, pies, etc. After peeling, the fruit should be immediately dipped into water containing fresh lemon juice to prevent the flesh from turning brown.

Commercial Potential: In California the feijoa is grown in a limited way for its fruit, especially in cool coastal locations, mainly around San Francisco. There has also been a major effort in New Zealand to commercialize the feijoa. Both domestic and imported fruit can often be found in the markets, but the demand does not seem to be great.

CULTIVARS

Apollo

Medium to large, oval fruit. Smooth, thin, light-green skin with blue-green surface bloom, subject to bruising and purpling. Pulp well-developed, slightly gritty. Flavor very pleasant, quality excellent. Ripens mid to late-season. Tree upright and spreading, to 8 ft. tall, vigorous and productive. Self-fertile, and will pollinate Gemini.

Choiceana

Originated in Australia. Small to medium-sized, round to oval fruit, 2 to 3-1/2 inches long. Skin fairly smooth. Flavor and quality good. Ripens in midseason. Tree moderately vigorous, spreading. Almost or always, but not less than 42% self-fertile.

Coolidge

Originated in Australia prior to 1908. Small to medium-sized fruit, 4 or more inches in length and 2-1/2 inches in diameter. Form pyriform to oblong or elongated. Skin somewhat wrinkled. Flavor mild, indifferent quality. Tree upright and strong growing, a reliable and heavy bearer, 100% self-fertile. The most widely planted cultivar in California.

Edenvale Improved Coolidge

Originated in Santa Cruz, Calif. by Frank Serpa of Edenvale Nurseries. Large, oblong fruit of very good to excellent flavor and quality. Ripens in October. Tree slow growing. Self-fertile, precocious and productive. Grows best in climates similar to cool, coastal ares of southern California.

Edenvale Late

From Edenvale Nurseries. Mediuim-sized, oblong fruit of very good to excellent flavor and quality. Ripens late, in January,and over a long period of time. Tree slow growing. Self-fertile, very productive. Grows best in climates similar to cool, coastal areas of southern California.

Edenvale Supreme

From Edenvale Nurseries. Medium-sized, oblong fruit of very good to excellent flavor and quality. Ripens in November. Best eaten soon after harvest. Tree slow growing. Self-fertile, precocious and productive. Grows best in climates similar to cool, coastal areas of southern California.

Gemini

Fruit small to medium, egg-shaped. Skin very smooth, thin, dark green with a heavy bloom. Flavor and texture excellent. Ripens in early autumn, earlier than Apollo. Tree upright, spreading, to 8 ft tall. Moderately vigorous, high yielding, partially self-fruitful, but cross pollination is recommended for best fruit quality.

Mammoth

Selected in New Zealand from seedlings of the Choiceana. Large, round to oval fruit, to 8-1/2 ounces, resembling Coolidge. Skin thick, somewhat wrinkled. Flesh somewhat gritty, quality and flavor very good. Matures early in midseason. Softer and not as good a shipper as Triumph. Tree of upright habit, to 10 ft. tall, strong growing. Self-fertile, but bears larger fruit, with cross-pollination.

Moore

Large, flavorsome fruit. Ripens in midseason. Very vigorous plant. Recommended for California.

Nazemetz

Originated in San Diego, Calif. by Alexander Nazemetz. Large, pear-shaped fruit, averaging 3 ounce in weight. Side walls moderately thin. Pulp translucent and sweet. Flavor and quality excellent. Ripens in late October to mid-December. Unlike that of many other cultivars, the pulp of Nazemetz does not darken after being cut or as it ripens, but retains its clear color. Tree self-fertile, but bears most heavily when cross-pollinated. Good pollinator for Trask.

Pineapple Gem

Originated in Azusa, Calif. by Monrovia Nursery. Small, round fruit of good to very good quality. Mid to late season ripening. Tree self-fruitful but bears heavier crops if pollinated. Does poorly under cool, coastal conditions.

Trask

Originated as a bud sport of Coolidge. Medium to large, oblong fruit, up to 3-1/2 inches long and weighing 3 to 5 ounces. Rough, dark green skin. Shells thicker and grittier than Coolidge. Flavor and quality good to very good. Ripens early. Tree self-fertile, but most productive when cross-pollinated. Precocious. Ideal pollinator for Nazemetz.

Triumph

Selected in New Zealand from seedlings of the Choiceana cultivar. Short, oval, plump fruits., not pointed as those of Coolidge, medium to large. Skin uneven but firm. Flesh somewhat gritty but with good seed to pulp ratio. Excellent sharp flavor. Ripens to midseason. Tree upright, of medium vigor. Bears heavily if pollinated. Good pollinator for Mammoth.

FURTHER READING

• Facciola, Stephen. Cornucopia: a Source Book of Edible Plants. Kampong Publications, 1990.
• Morton, Julia F. Fruits of Warm Climates. Creative Resources Systems, Inc. 1987. pp. 367-370.
• Ortho Books. All About Citrus and Subtropical Fruits. Chevron Chemical Co. 1985. pp. 44-45.

 

---

 

---

© Copyright 1996, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc.
Questions or comments? Contact us.