Feijoa

FEIJOA

Feijoa sellowiana O.

Myrtaceae

Common Names: Feijoa, Pineapple Guava, Guavasteen.

Related Species: In more recent times Feijoa sellowiana has been renamed Acca sellowiana, but most sources still use the older name.

Distant affinity: Eugenias (Eugenia spp.), Guavas (Psidium spp.), Jaboticaba (Myrciaria spp.).

Origin: The feijoa is native to extreme southern Brazil, northern Argentina, western Paraguay and Uruguay where it is common in the mountains.

Adaptation: Feijoas prefer cool winters and moderate summers (80° to 90° F), and are generally adapted to areas where temperatures stay above 15° F. Flower production is poor in areas with fewer than 50 hours of chilling. The flavor of the fruit is much better in cool than in warm regions. Even thought the plants are relatively hardy, sudden fall frosts can damage ripening fruit and late spring frosts can destroy blossoms. Spring frost damage is most likely in mild-winter areas, where the plants are not completely hardened off and respond to warm spells by blooming early.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: The feijoa is a slow-growing evergreen shrub that can reach 15 ft. high and 15 ft. wide. The bark is pale gray and the spreading branches are swollen at the nodes and white-hairy when young. In addition to the fruit it provides, the shrub also doubles handsomely as a landscape specimen. When planted close together, the shrubs make a nice hedge, screen, or windbreak. Feijoas can also be espaliered or trained as a small tree (20 to 25 ft. tall) with one or more trunks. The wood is dense, hard, and brittle.

Foliage: The evergreen, thick, leathery leaves of the feijoa are opposite, short-petioled and bluntly elliptical. In size they range from 1 to 2-1/2 inches long and 5/8 to 1 inch wide. The leaves are smooth soft green on top and silvery underneath, flashing nicely in a gentle breeze.

Flowers: The 1 inch showy, bisexual flowers, borne singly or in a cluster, have long, bright red stamens topped with large grains of yellow pollen. Flowers appear late, from May through June. Each flower contains four to six fleshy flower petals that are white tinged with purple on the inside. These petals are mildly sweet and edible and can make a refreshing addition to spring salads. Birds eating the petals pollinate the flower.

It has been said that feijoa pollen is transferred by birds that are attracted to and eat the flowers, but bees are the chief pollinators. Most flowers pollinated with compatible pollen show 60 to 90% fruit set. Hand pollination is nearly 100% effective. Two or more bushes should be planted together for cross-pollination unless the cultivar is known to be self-compatible. Poor bearing is usually the result of inadequate pollination.

Fruits: The fruits range from 3/4 to 3-1/2 inches long and vary in shape from round to elongated pear shape, with the persistent calyx segments adhering to the apex. The waxy skin is dull blue-green to blue or grayish green, sometimes with a red or orange blush. Skin texture varies from smooth to rough and pebbly and is 3/16 to 5/8 inch thick. The fruit emits a strong long-lasting perfume, even before it is fully ripe. The thick, white, granular, watery flesh and the translucent central pulp enclosing the seeds are sweet or subacid, suggesting a combination of pineapple and guava or pineapple and strawberry, often with overtones of winter green or spearmint. There are usually 20 – 40, occasionally more, very small, oblong seeds hardly noticeable when the fruit is eaten.

CULTURE

Location: To protect the fruit from sunburn and other adverse effects of high temperature, choose a plant site away from hot, reflected sun. The feijoa can tolerate partial shade and slight exposure to salt spray. They also make an excellent foundation planting, either singly or as an informal hedge.

Soil: Feijoas will grow in a wide variety of soils. The best harvests, however, come from plants growing in well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 7.0. They are fairly salt tolerant, but salinity slows growth and reduces yields.

Irrigation: Foundation plantings of feijoas in summer dry California have survived for several years without supplemental water. Lack of water, however, will cause the fruit to drop. For quality harvests, water deeply on a regular basis, especially during flowering and fruit periods, and mulch the soil around the plants to protect the shallow roots.

Fertilization: Feijoas grow slowly and require only light applications of a complete fertilizer. A feeding of 8-8-8 NPK once every two months can speed growth.

Pruning: Pruning is not required to keep plants productive, but a light pruning in the summer after fruit is harvested will encourage new growth and increase yields the following year. Thinning the plant also permits easier harvesting. When grown as a hedge, the feijoa responds well to heavy pruning or shearing, but this reduces flower and fruit production.

Propagation: The feijoa grows easily from seed, but the seedlings are not always true to type. Seeds are separated by squeezing the seedy pulp into a container, covering with water, and letting the liquid stand for 4 days to ferment. The seeds are then strained out and dried before sowing. The seeds will retain viability for a year or more if kept dry. Germination takes place in 3 weeks. The plant fruits in 3 – 5 years from seed. Vegetative means are necessary to reproduce a variety. Young wood cuttings will root within two months with bottom heat and mist. Whip, tongue or veneer grafting methods are sometimes successful, as is air-layering and ground layering. Cutting-grown plants of named varieties are most desirable, because they can be trained in a variety of ways, and can be maintained as multitrunked shrubs without concern that suckers will develop into “rogue” branches.

Pests and diseases: The feijoa is remarkably pest and disease-resistant. It is occasionally attacked by by black scale in California, as well as fruit flies where that is a problem.

Harvest: In southern California the fruits ripen 4-1/2 to 6 months after flowers appear and in 5-1/2 to 7 months in the San Francisco area. As the fruit matures, its color changes almost imperceptibly. The best way is to allow them to fall from the tree. Giving the tree a shake and gathering the fruit from the ground every couple of days is the usual method of harvesting. To keep the fruit from bruising, place a tarp or other large cloth under the tree to catch them as they fall. Feijoas can also be picked when firm and mature and allowed to ripen at room temperature, although the quality will not be as good as tree ripened fruit. Mature fruit can be stored in the refrigerator for about a week, but after that the quality declines. Feijoas are mainly eaten fresh as a dessert or in salads, but can also be cooked in puddings, pies, etc. After peeling, the fruit should be immediately dipped into water containing fresh lemon juice to prevent the flesh from turning brown.

Commercial Potential: In California the feijoa is grown in a limited way for its fruit, especially in cool coastal locations, mainly around San Francisco. There has also been a major effort in New Zealand to commercialize the feijoa. Both domestic and imported fruit can often be found in the markets, but the demand does not seem to be great.

CULTIVARS

Apollo: Medium to large, oval fruit. Smooth, thin, light-green skin with blue-green surface bloom, subject to bruising and purpling. Pulp well-developed, slightly gritty. Flavor very pleasant, quality excellent. Ripens mid to late-season. Tree upright and spreading, to 8 ft. tall, vigorous and productive. Self-fertile, and will pollinate Gemini.
Choiceana: Originated in Australia. Small to medium-sized, round to oval fruit, 2 to 3-1/2 inches long. Skin fairly smooth. Flavor and quality good. Ripens in midseason. Tree moderately vigorous, spreading. Almost or always, but not less than 42% self-fertile.
Coolidge: Originated in Australia prior to 1908. Small to medium-sized fruit, 4 or more inches in length and 2-1/2 inches in diameter. Form pyriform to oblong or elongated. Skin somewhat wrinkled. Flavor mild, indifferent quality. Tree upright and strong growing, a reliable and heavy bearer, 100% self-fertile. The most widely planted cultivar in California.
Edenvale Improved Coolidge: Originated in Santa Cruz, Calif. by Frank Serpa of Edenvale Nurseries. Large, oblong fruit of very good to excellent flavor and quality. Ripens in October. Tree slow growing. Self-fertile, precocious and productive. Grows best in climates similar to cool, coastal ares of southern California.
Edenvale Late: From Edenvale Nurseries. Mediuim-sized, oblong fruit of very good to excellent flavor and quality. Ripens late, in January,and over a long period of time. Tree slow growing. Self-fertile, very productive. Grows best in climates similar to cool, coastal areas of southern California.
Edenvale Supreme: From Edenvale Nurseries. Medium-sized, oblong fruit of very good to excellent flavor and quality. Ripens in November. Best eaten soon after harvest. Tree slow growing. Self-fertile, precocious and productive. Grows best in climates similar to cool, coastal areas of southern California.
Gemini: Fruit small to medium, egg-shaped. Skin very smooth, thin, dark green with a heavy bloom. Flavor and texture excellent. Ripens in early autumn, earlier than Apollo. Tree upright, spreading, to 8 ft tall. Moderately vigorous, high yielding, partially self-fruitful, but cross pollination is recommended for best fruit quality.
Mammoth: Selected in New Zealand from seedlings of the Choiceana. Large, round to oval fruit, to 8-1/2 ounces, resembling Coolidge. Skin thick, somewhat wrinkled. Flesh somewhat gritty, quality and flavor very good. Matures early in midseason. Softer and not as good a shipper as Triumph. Tree of upright habit, to 10 ft. tall, strong growing. Self-fertile, but bears larger fruit, with cross-pollination.
Moore: Large, flavorsome fruit. Ripens in midseason. Very vigorous plant. Recommended for California.
Nazemetz: Originated in San Diego, Calif. by Alexander Nazemetz. Large, pear-shaped fruit, averaging 3 ounce in weight. Side walls moderately thin. Pulp translucent and sweet. Flavor and quality excellent. Ripens in late October to mid-December. Unlike that of many other cultivars, the pulp of Nazemetz does not darken after being cut or as it ripens, but retains its clear color. Tree self-fertile, but bears most heavily when cross-pollinated. Good pollinator for Trask.
Pineapple Gem: Originated in Azusa, Calif. by Monrovia Nursery. Small, round fruit of good to very good quality. Mid to late season ripening. Tree self-fruitful but bears heavier crops if pollinated. Does poorly under cool, coastal conditions.
Trask: Originated as a bud sport of Coolidge. Medium to large, oblong fruit, up to 3-1/2 inches long and weighing 3 to 5 ounces. Rough, dark green skin. Shells thicker and grittier than Coolidge. Flavor and quality good to very good. Ripens early. Tree self-fertile, but most productive when cross-pollinated. Precocious. Ideal pollinator for Nazemetz.
Triumph: Selected in New Zealand from seedlings of the Choiceana cultivar. Short, oval, plump fruits., not pointed as those of Coolidge, medium to large. Skin uneven but firm. Flesh somewhat gritty but with good seed to pulp ratio. Excellent sharp flavor. Ripens to midseason. Tree upright, of medium vigor. Bears heavily if pollinated. Good pollinator for Mammoth.

Jaboticaba

JABOTICABA

Myrciaria spp.

Myrtaceae

Common Names: Jaboticaba, Jabuticaba, Guaperu, Guapuru, Hivapuru, Sabara, Ybapuru

Species: Myrciaria cauliflora Berg., M. jaboticaba Berg., M. tenella Berg., M. trunciflora Berg.

Related Species: Guavaberry, Rumberry (Myrciaria floribunda), Yellow Jaboticaba (M. glomerata), Camu-camu (M. paraensis). Blue Grape (M. vexator).

Distant affinity: Eugenias (Eugenia spp.), Feijoa (Feijoa sellowiana), Guavas (Psidium spp.).

Origin: All four of the jaboticaba species are native to the Minas Gerais region of Brazil. Some are also indigenous to other parts of Brazil, as well as areas in Bolivia, Paraguay, northeastern Argentina, Uruguay and Peru. In Brazil jaboticabas are cultivated from the southern city of Rio Grande to Bahia, and from the seacoast to Goyaz and Matto Grosso in the west. It was introduced into California (at Santa Barbara) about 1904.

Adaptation: In Brazil jaboticabas grow from sea-level to elevations of more than 3,000 ft. Different plants vary markedly in how much frost they can take without severe damage, probably reflecting the species that a given plant belongs to. Some plants can take 24° F or lower and survive; others are damaged at 27° F. In 1917, a young tree at Brooksville, Florida survived a temperature drop to 18° F. with only the foliage and branches killed back. In California jaboticabas have been successfully grown in San Diego, Spring Valley, Bostonia, Encinitas, South Los Angeles and as far north as the San Jose and San Francisco Bay areas. The plant makes a suitable container specimen.

DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: The jaboticaba is a slow growing large shrub or small, bushy tree. It reaches a height of 10 – 15 feet in California and 12 – 45 feet in Brazil, depending on the species. The trees are profusely branched, beginning close to the ground and slanting upward and outward so that the dense, rounded crown may attain an ultimate spread as wide as it is tall. The thin, beige to reddish bark flakes off much like that of the guava. The jaboticaba makes an attractive landscape plant.

Foliage: The evergreen, opposite leaves are lanceolate to elliptic, 1 – 4 inches in length and 1/2 – 3/4 inch wide. In color they are a glossy dark green with a leathery texture. The size, shape and texture varies somewhat from one species to another.

Flowers: The small yellow-white flowers dramatically emerge from the multiple trunks, limbs and large branches in groups of four. It has been reported from Brazil that solitary jaboticaba trees bear poorly compared with those planted in groups, which indicates that cross-pollination enhances productivity.

Fruits: Jaboticaba fruit is grape-like in appearance and texture but with a thicker, tougher skin. Most California fruit is dark purple to almost black in color. Averages size is one inch in diameter but can run from 3/4 to 1-1/2 inches, depending on species and variety. The gelatinous whitish pulp contains from one to four small seeds and has a pleasant, subacid flavor markedly similar to certain muscadine grapes. The skin has a slight resinous flavor that is not objectionable. Fruit may be produced singly or in clusters from the ground up all over the trunk and main branches, and the plant may fruit up to five times per year. Fresh fruit is delicious eaten out-of-hand and can be made into jellies, jams and wine. The skin is high in tannin and should not be consumed in large quantities over a long period of time.

CULTURE

Location: Jaboticaba trees are will take full sun or some shade and are small enough fit into many parts of the garden landscape. They are fairly wind tolerant but do not like salty sea air. Small, young trees do best with some protection.

Soil: Jaboticabas grow and fruit best in rich deep soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Although it is not well adapted to alkaline soils, it may be grown successfully by mulching and applying necessary nutrient sprays containing iron. The tree is not tolerant of salty or poorly drained soil. It has grown and borne well on sand in Central Florida.

Fertilization: For young plants half ratio fertilizer at monthly intervals will speed the plant’s very slow growth rate. Any well-balanced fertilizer applied three times per year will keep the plant healthy. Because of its shallow root system, it is suggested that a series of small holes be dug and filled with organic material around the plant’s base. The organic material can contain a balanced fertilizer which will be released during irrigation.

Irrigation: Water should be supplied as needed to maintain good soil moisture and prevent wilting, but constant flooding is undesirable. As the root system is somewhat shallow, irrigation is usually required when the upper inch or two of soil become dry.

Pruning: Pruning of jaboticabas is not usually needed, but when pruned as a hedge, the fruit is not destroyed since it is formed only on the inner branches and trunk.

Frost Protection: Although Jaboticabas can tolerate a few degrees of frost, they do best under frost-free conditions. In areas where frost may be a problem, providing them with some overhead protection or planting them next to a wall or a building may be sufficient. The smallish plants are also fairly easy to cover during cold snaps by placing carpeting, plastic sheeting, etc. over a frame around them. Potted specimens can be moved to a frost-secure area.

Propagation: Most seeds are polyembryonic, producing a plant that is true or close to the parent plant. The seeds germinate in about one month. A suggested potting mixture is 2 parts peat, 2 parts coarse sand and 1 part coarse perlite, wood shavings or compost. Selected strains can be reproduced by inarching (approach grafting) or air-layering. Budding is not easily accomplished because of the thinness of the bark and the hardness of the of the wood. Veneer or side grafts are fairly successful. The grafted plant will fruit considerably earlier than a seedling. One may expect a grafted plant to produce fruit within three years, It can take from 8 to 15 years for a seedling to mature into a fruiting tree. It is this very slow growth that has kept this plant from becoming as popular as it deserves to be. Grafting older trees over to a different variety is inadvisable because it is the trunk and inner branches which produce the fruit. One would have to cut the tree back to a one-inch stump in order to change its fruiting nature.

When planting a jaboticaba, the crown (uppermost) roots should be 2 to 3 inches higher than the surrounding soil levels to provide water runoff. Peat, compost or rotted manure may be mixed with the soil from the planting hole to improve it. The soil should be a well-aerated mixture.

Pests and diseases: The fruit and flowers of some varieties are susceptible to a fungus caused rust during wet periods. Many flowers may desiccate during dry periods. Birds, raccoons and opossums are all attracted to fruiting trees. Deer will sometimes browse on the new foliage, but jaboticaba roots are not particularly attractive to gophers.

Harvest: Jaboticaba fruits are ready to harvest when they have developed a full color and are somewhat soft like a ripe grape. They are mostly eaten out-of-hand in South America. By squeezing the fruit between the thumb and forefinger, one can cause the skin to split and the pulp to slip into the mouth. The peeled fruits are often used for making jelly and marmalade, with the addition of pectin. Jaboticaba wine is made to a limited extent in Brazil.

Commercial Potential: Jaboticabas are a significant commercial fruit in Brazil and to a limited extent in other parts of South America where they thrive. They are a very tasty fresh fruit, and if they were more plentiful and were properly promoted, they could have a commercial future in this country. Their relative frost sensitivity combined with their slowness to fruit from seedlings is a major drawback to commercial success.

CULTIVARS

Branca: Produces large bright green flavorful fruit. Medium size and heavy producer.
Paulista: Large to very large fruit, skin thick and leathery. Flesh juicy, subacid to sweet. Quality very good, ripens relatively late. Resistant to rust. Tree strong growing, highly productive though it bears a single crop. Introduced into California in 1904.
Rajada: Fruit very large, skin green-bronze, thinner than that of Paulista. Flavor sweet and very good. Tree much like that of Paulista. Midseason.
Sabara: Most prized and most often planted tree in Brazil. Fruit is small, thin-skinned and sweet. Tree medium-sized, precocious and very productive. Produces 4 crops per year. Susceptible to flower and fruit rust.
Ponhema: Produces a large, leathery skinned fruit with a pointed apex. Must be fully ripe for eating raw. Mostly used in jellies or preserves. Tree is very large and a heavy producer.

Our Roots

The following sketch was based in part on a much longer article, Twenty Years of CRFG: How We Got There, by C.T. Kennedy, which appeared in the 1988 Yearbook of the California Rare Fruit Growers, pp. 3-17.

California Rare Fruit Growers traces its beginnings to a telephone call received in November 1966 by Paul Thomson in Bonsall, Calif. from John Riley of Santa Clara, Calif. The telephone call led to a meeting at the Thomson home, and later a visit to Thomson’s orchard in Vista, where mangoes, litchis and longans were mature and producing fruit. This led to a realization that among the many gardeners and orchardists along the subtropical Pacific Coast there was a store of knowledge and experiences which might help them all in the cultivation of rare fruits.

The CRFG did not happen overnight, however. Thomson canvassed his friends and acquaintances and corresponded regularly with Riley. By November 1968, there was enough interest to form a group. A name was chosen to best express their objective: the California Rare Fruit Growers. Thomson and Riley drew a manifesto and 27 others joined the group as charter members. One thing was certain: the need for a timely publication through which members could exchange knowledge. In these early years the focus of CRFG was almost exclusively on California conditions. A list was drawn up of all the unusual fruits known to the founders at that time, along with a membership roster. The fruit list was a puny thing compared to the one we know now, and serves to remind us just how far we have come. The old list of fruits “not known in current cultivation” is now obsolete, and the hardiness of many fruits can be adjusted several degrees downward. Early on CRFG made discoveries that today seem a bit quaint: that mangoes felt at home in Coachella Valley, for instance, or that white sapotes and feijoas can be fruited in most areas of the state–indeed, the northern limits of their culture is still unknown. CRFG still has work of this sort to do and a purpose to serve in California and elsewhere. CRFG members have not distinguished a boundary between the possible and impossible in horticulture, and have made fruit growing immensely more interesting than it was in the days of pomology manuals and all-knowing county agents.

John Riley edited the Yearbook and Paul Thomson produced the Newsletter in his home. Thomson handled the paperwork and Riley began the seed fund to obtain and distribute seeds of new fruits. CRFG held its first general membership meeting in Bonsall, the start of the CRFG effort to provide field trips, demonstrations and social events to expand members’ activity beyond the mailbox and armchair. CRFG members from the beginning have included commercial fruit growers, academicians, researchers, nurserymen, county agents, and of course the core of backyard fruit growers. CRFG grew to 379 members in 1971 and 595 in 1975. This involved just too much work for one or two persons, and in November 1978 the CRFG membership voted to draw up a formal Board of Directors, a 13-member governing body that selects a president and other officers and manages the affairs of CRFG. Later the organization completed its incorporation.

Because of the broad range of climates within California, and possibilities for growing different fruits from north to south, CRFG considers rare fruits to include the unusual and unappreciated, fruits difficult to grow by reason of climate along with extraordinary and superior forms of conventional, temperate zone fruits. Our field of interest has been further enlarged to include unusual vegetables, cereals and seasoning plants–the other rare edibles from the vegetable kingdom. To give better scope to our members’ interests, and opportunity to share experiences, geographical chapters have been formed. Each chapter has regular meeting programs, which generally include pictorial presentations, fruit exhibits and tastings, skills demonstrations, field trips, plant and supplies sales, raffles, etc. Chapters operate with considerable independence from CRFG, have their treasury and officers, and collect their own fees to cover the cost of newsletters and activities. Today there are 16 California chapters with one each in Arizona and Texas.

The chapters undertake informally to bring rare fruits to public notice in a variety of ways. These include such diverse activities as assisting in creation of certified farmers’ markets, connecting rare fruit marketers with member growers, and providing plant sales to encourage backyard nurserymen to propagate unusual fruit plants. Several chapters have circulating and other libraries. Some chapters maintain demonstration fruit plantings in public arboreta or sponsor experimental orchard plantings. Some chapters hold annual scion exchanges. The ones sponsored by northern chapters each winter are collectively widely noted for the many hundreds of fruit cultivars available. Most southern chapters produce exhibits for county fairs–frequently receiving best-in-show awards.

An important aspect of CRFG activity from the very start has been the publication of some kind of official journal, although the form has evolved over time. In the beginning the format was a quarterly Newsletter (later renamed The Fruit Gardener) containing articles of timely interest and an annual Yearbook or Journal of topical articles. In 1990 a major advancement occurred when the various pieces were reconstituted into an enlarged bimonthly publication, THE FRUIT GARDENER. This took on the look of a proper magazine, 8-1/2 x 11″ in size and using color in its covers as well as occasional inside color photography, plus a crisp new font and better organization. Refinements in the meantime include more internal color and a tighter publishing schedule. Efforts have also been made to broaden the appeal with new special departments and more articles from and appropriate to an increasing range of members outside California.

The establishment our web site (https://crfg.org/) in mid-1995 was another major advancement with implications that are still unfolding. The award-winning site today is a powerful online file of fruit-related information–all of which is free for the taking. Components of the site include all of the earlier Fruit Facts plus an equal number of new Fruit Facts, the 20-year Index of CRFG Publications (with descriptions of 250 rare and unusual edible plants), the Fruit List, the list of CRFG Member Nurseries and Fruit Sources, reprints of significant articles from earlier CRFG publications and much more. Another important facet of our web site is a “Contact Us” page that visitors can use to post questions or seek additional information.

A major benefit of our Internet presence has been the addition of a significant number of new members. Today CRFG membership stands at 3,100+ and is growing for the first time in a decade. A majority of these new members are from outside California, which adds a certain richness to the organization and strengthens our position as a truly international organization.

By Ronni Kern, 5 yearsMay 12, 2019 ago

Growing Rare Fruit From Seed

The information here was extracted with minor revisions from an article by John M. Riley that appeared in the 1981 CRFG Yearbook (vol. 13, 1981, pp.1-47). The full article contains important additional information on mechanisms of seed germination, propagation techniques, propagation media, container mixes and seed storage. You can access the entire article by clicking here.

Seed Treatment Methods

Hot Water: This treatment consists of soaking the seed in hot water for a period of time. One procedure is to pour boiling water over the seed, using about four volumes of water to one volume of seed. The intent is a thermal shock which rapidly diminished to room temperature. Usually this is followed by moist cold storage. Most pathogens are destroyed at about 160° F (71° C). The treatment is a little tricky for home use, since most seed are killed at 178° F (81° C).
Sulfuric Acid Treatment: The acid attacks cellulose and is often recommended as a dramatic treatment for seed coat modification. For the home gardener, handling sulfuric acid may present some hazard.
Hydrogen Peroxide: This is commonly available in a 3% solution. It may be used in full strength for about 20 minute to disinfect seed and alter the seed coat. The peroxide may then be diluted in half with water and the seed soaked for up to 24 hours.
Sodium/Calcium Hypochlorite: This material is commonly available as ordinary laundry bleach. It effectively sterilizes and disinfects when used in a 10% solution. This can be prepared by added 1/4 cup bleach to 2 cups of water. Soak the seed for 20 minutes to sterilize and rinse thoroughly afterwards.
Alcohol and Other Solvents: Many volatile solvents, including grain alcohol have been mentioned as having an effect on seed germination. Quite possibly this results from softening waxy compounds in the seed coat which are not water soluble.
Gibberellin: Gibberellic acid promotes germination in many seeds. It also helps overcome the tendency for some seedling to become dwarfed and to grow slowly after the harsh treatment used to initiate germination. Seed may be soaked with concentration of 100 to 1,000 ppm for 24 hours.
Cytokinins: Natural growth hormones stimulate the germination of many kinds of seed by acting at the molecular level on biological processes. Many synthetic cytokinins are available from tissue culture supply houses, but since they must be kept at a low temperature to prevent decomposition, they are not available in garden supply centers. Soaking for three minutes in kinetin at concentration of 100 ppm has been recommended.
Ethylene: This gas occurs naturally in plants and has a number of biological effects, including the stimulation of seed germination. One of the chemicals available to gardener to generate ethylene is ethephon. Since gibberellins, cytokinins and ethylene are three dominant components in initiating germination, it is natural that they work best when applied together.
Potassium Nitrate: Many freshly harvested dormant seeds germinate better if soaked in a 0.2% potassium nitrate solution. Seeds should be soaked for no more than 24 hours and then rinsed well.
Thiourea: This has been used to stimulate germination of some dormant seeds, particularly those that do not germinate in darkness or at high temperatures. A water solution of 0.5 to 4% is recommended. Since thiourea is somewhat inhibitory to growth, the seeds should be soaked no longer than 24 hours and then rinsed well.
Vitamins: The most common vitamin supplement for plants is vitamin B1 (thiamine). Other vitamins of the B complex are also useful. Nicotinic acid (niacin) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) have all been recommended.
Willow Tea: A tea made from willow bark contains a substance that enhances the actions of plant hormones and appears to stimulate germination. Soaking seed in willow tea for 24 to 48 hours is suggested.

Procedures

The table that follows summarizes specific information useful for growing rare fruit from seed. Rare fruits (mostly those tried in California) are listed by their botanical names. Common names can be connected to their botanical names through the CRFG Fruit List.

Storage Life, in months, (assuming proper treatment) is listed in column two. The storage type (next column) is categorized as follows:

WTM–WARM TROPICAL MOIST

Seed should be maintained above 70° F (21° C) and not allowed to dry out before planting.

TI–TROPICAL INTERMEDIATE

Seed should be dried to about 70% of harvest weight and stored a temperature of about 40° F (4° C).

TD–TEMPERATE DRY

Seed should be dried to below 50% of harvest weight and stored at room temperature or preferably 40° F (4° C).

CM–COOL MOIST

Store seed with sufficient moisture to prevent drying out at about 40° F (4° C).

Dormancy Breaker, column four, indicates any special treatment to break dormancy. In each case the seed can profit from a 24-hour soaking before planting.

SC–SCARIFICATION

Seeds are made permeable to water by sanding, filing or nicking the seed coat.

R–SEED COAT REMOVAL

Carefully crack or remove outer seed coating.

SK–PRESOAK

Soak seed 24 hours before planting.

MC–MOIST CHILLING

After soaking 24 hours, pack the seed with moist sterile material and store for 30 to 60 days at 40° F (4° C).

ST–STRATIFY

Soak seed 24 hours and store moist for one or more seasons in the natural environment. Do not let seed dry out.

WMS–WARM MOIST STORAGE

After soaking 24 hours, store above 70° F (21° C). Plant soon.

CW–ALTERNATE COLD/MOIST TREATMENT

Soak seed for 24 hours and subject to periods of 40° F (4° C). Cycle several times if necessary.

Germination Period, column five, lists the time lapse between seedbed planting and emergence. Time required to break dormancy is not included. Times vary with cultivation and seed condition.

Hardiness (deg. F and C), column six. Values are approximate and are mostly taken from books which include the tropics, Florida and California. In a given situation, plant size, previous environment, health and chill factor can alter the response to a given temperature. There may also be significant differences in variants of the same species. The hardiness values listed are probably optimistic by about 5° F (2° C) for tropical fruit tree seedlings or young plants.

General Comments. A number following a symbol indicates the days of treatment required. A plus (+) after a number means the value may be exceeded. A temperature in parenthesis following the germination period indicates the minimum temperature (°F, °C) required for germination. The information on germination time is approximate and based largely on John Riley’s personal experience.

CHARACTERISTICS OF RARE FRUIT PROPAGATION FROM SEED

Botanical name	Storage life (mos.)	Storage type	Dormancy breaker	Germination days	Hardiness°F (°C)
Actinidia
chinensis	12+	TD	SC/CW	14-21	10 (-12)
arguta	12+	TD	SC/CW	14-21	-25 (-32)
kolomikta	12+	TD	SC/CW	14-21	-40 (-40)
Aegle
marmelo	12+	TI	SK/WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
Akebia
quinata	24+	TD	MC	14-21	25 (-4)
trifoliata	24+	TD	MC	14-21	25 (-4)
Amelanchier
ainifoli	8	TD	SC/MC	14-21	-50 (-45)
canadensis	8	TD	SC/MC	14-21	-30(-35)
denticulatum	8	TD	SC/MC	14-21	-10(-23)
Anacardium
occidental	1	WTM	SK	14-21	30 (-1)
Annona
cherimola	24+	TD	SK	14-21	26 (-3)
purpurea	12+	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
reticulata	12+	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
squamosa	12+	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Antidesma
bunius	12+	TI	SK	14-21	26 (-3)
dallachyanum	12+	TI	SK	14-21	26 (-3)
platyphyllum	12+	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Arbutus
unedo	12-24	TD	MC	30	15 (-10)
Artocarpus
communis	1	WTM	WMS	7-21	35 (3)
integrifolia	1	WTM	WMS	7-21	30 (-1)
hypargyraeus	1	WTM	WMS	7-21	30 (-1)
Asimina
triloba	12+	CM	SC/MC	30-90	-25 (-32)
Averrhoa
bilimbi	6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
carambola	6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Billardia
cymosa	24+	TD	MC	14-21	0 (-12)
scandens	24+	TD	MC	14-21	0 (-12)
Blighia
sapida	3	WTM	WMS	7-21	30 (-1)
Carica
goudotiana	24+	TD	SK	14-30	28 (-2)
monoica	24+	TD	SK	14-30	28 (-2)
papaya	24+	TD	SK	14-30	30 (-1)
pubescens	24+	TD	SK	14-30	26 (-3)
stipulata	24+	TD	SK	14-30	28 (-2)
toronchi	24+	TD	SK	14-30	28 (-2)
Carissa
carandas	12+	TI	SK	16	24 (-5)
edulis	12+	TI	SK	16	26 (-3)
macrocarpa	12+	TI	SK	16	26 (-3)
Carya
illinoiensis	36-48	TI	MC	30	-10 (-23)
Casimiroa
edulis	6	TI	R/SK	14-21	24 (-5)
tetrameria	6	TI	R/SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Castanea
dentata	8	CM	MC	28	-10 (-23)
pumila	8	CM	MC	28	-10 (-23)
Ceratonia
siliqua	60	TD	SC	20-30	20 (-8)
Cereus
peruvianus	36	TD	light	3-14	26 (-3)
Chrysophyllum
cainito	6	WTM	WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
Citrus
aurantifolia	12	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
aurantium	12	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
limon	12	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
maxima	12	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
mitis	12	TI	SK	14-21	20 (-8)
paradisi	12	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
reticulata	12	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
sinensis	12	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
Clausena
lansium	12	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
Coccolaba
uvifera	12	TD	WMS	14-21	30 (-1)
Coffea
arabica	6	CM	WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
liberica	6	CM	WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
Cornus
amonum	24+	TD	CW	14-21	0 (-18)
mas	24+	TD	CW	14-21	0 (-18)
Corylus
americana	12+	CM	CW	10-30	-15 (-26)
avellana	12+	CM	CW	10-30	-15 (-26)
Crateagus
aestivalis	24+	TD	SC/MC	30-40	-15 (-26)
pubescens	24+	TD	SC/MC	30-40	-15 (-26)
Cudrania
tricuspidata	36	TD	SC/ST	14-21	-20 (-29)
Cydonia
oblonga	8	CM	MC	14-21	-15 (-26)
Cyphomandra
betacea	24	TD	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Diospyros
digyna	6	WTM	SK/WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
discolor	6	WTM	SK/WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
kaki	12+	TI	SC/MC	14-21	0 (-18)
virginiana	24-36	TD	SC/MC	14-21	-10 (-23)
Dovyalis
abyssinica	24+	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
caffra	24+	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
hebecarpa	24+	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Elaeagnus
multiflora	24+	TI	SK/MC	14-21	-10 (-23)
philippensis	12+	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
pungaens	24+	TI	SK/MC	14-21	0 (-18)
Eriobotrya
japonica	8 days	CM	MC	14-21	12 (-11)
Eugenia
aggregata	6	TI	SK	14-21	20 (-8)
brasilliensis	6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
luschnathiana	6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
uniflora	6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Euphoria
longan	1	WTM	WMS	16-30	24 (-4)
Feijoa
sellowiana	24+	TI	MC	14-21	14 (-10)
Feronia
limonia	12	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Ficus
carica	24+	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
Flacourtia
ramonchi	12+	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Fortunella
japonica	12	TI	SK	14-21	10 (-12)
margarita	12	TI	SK	14-21	10 (-12)
Garcinia
mangostana	1-2	WTM	SK/WMS	14-21	40 (4)
xanthochymus	2-4	WTM	SK/WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
Gaultheria
shallon	12	TD	MC	30	0 (-18)
Gaylussacia
frondosa	24+	TD	CW	10-30	0 (-18)
resinosa	24+	TD	CW	10-30	0 (-18)
Gevuina
avellana	6	CM	WMS	14-21	10 (-12)
Harpyphyllum
caffrum	24+	TI	R	14-21	26 (-3)
Hibiscus
sabariffa	36	TD	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Hovenia
dulcis	24+	TD	SC/MC	14-30	-10 (-23)
Inga
paterno	6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Litchi
chinensis	1	WTM	WMS	16-30	28 (-2)
Macadamia
integrifolia	24	TI	SK	14-30	24 (-4)
tetraphylla	24	TO	SK	14-30	24 (-4)
Malphigia
glabra	6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Mammea
americana	2-4	WTM	SK/WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
Mangiferum
indica	2	WTM	R/SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Manilkara
zapota	24	TD	SK	15-30	28 (-2)
Melicoccus
bijugatus	3	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Morus
alba	24+	TI	SC/ST	14-21	-20 (-29)
nigra	24+	TI	SC/ST	14-21	0 (-18)
rubra	24+	TI	SC/ST	14-21	-10 (-13)
Muntingia
calibura	12+	TI	SK/WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
Musa
balbisiana	12	TI	SK/WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
Myrciaria
cauliflora	6	TI	SK	14-21	24 (-4)
Myrtus
communis	24+	TD	MC	14-21	25 (-4)
Passiflora
alata	3-6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
edulis	3-6	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
laurifolia	3-6	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
ligularis	3-6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
molissima	3-6	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
quadrangularis	3-6	TI	SK	14-21	32 (0)
Persea
americana 4 WTM WMS 14-21 22-28 (-6, -2)
Pistachia
vera	2-3	TI	R/SK	14-21	10 (-12)
Pometia
pinnata	6	WTM	WMS	14-21	28 (-2)
Poncirus
trifoliata	12-24	TI	SK	14-21	0 (-18)
Pouteria
campechiana	6	WTM	WMS	14-21	30 (-1)
sapota	6	WTM	WMS	14-21	30 (-1)
viride	6	WTM	WMS	14-21	30 (-1)
Prunus
salicifolia	24	TI	SK	14-21	20 (-7)
Psidium
cattleianum	12+	TI	SK	14-21	25 (-4)
guajava	12	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Punica
granatum	36	TI	MC	14-30	12 (-11)
Rhodomyrtus
tomentosa	12	TI	SK	14-21	26 (-3)
Ribes
hirtellum 48+ TD MC 30 -30 (-35
nigrum	48+	TD	MC	30	-30 (-35)
rubrum	48+	TD	MC	30	-30 (-35)
sativum	48+	TD	MC	30	-30 (-35)
uva-crispa 48+ TD MC 30 -30 (-35)
Rollinia
deliciosa	--	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Sambucus
caerulea	24+	TI	SC/MC	30	-20 (-28)
canadensis	24+	TI	SC/MC	30	-20 (-28)
racemosa	24+	TI	SC/MC	30	-20 (-28)
Sandoricum
koetjape	36	TD	SK	14-21	26 (-3)
Shepherdia
argentea	42+	TD	SC/MC	30-60	-20 (-28)
Simmondsia
chinensis	12+	TD	SK	5-7 (78/176; F, 26/176; C)	15 (-10)
Solanum
quitoense	24	TD	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
topiru	24	TD	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Sorbus
aucuparia	24	TD	MC	10-30	-20 (-28)
domestica	24	TD	MC	10-30	-10 (-23)
terminalis	24	TD	MC	10-30	-10 (-23)
Synsepalum
dulcificum	1	WTM	WMS	7-21	30 (-1)
Syzygium
aromaticum	2-6	TI	SK	14-21	32 (0)
cumini	2-6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
jamabos	2-6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
malaccense	2-6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
paniculatum	2-6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Tamarindus
indica	6	TI	SK	14-21	28 (-2)
Theobroma
cacao	1	WTM	SK	7-14 (80/176; F, 27/176; C)	30 (-1)
Ugni
molinae	24+	TI	SK	14-21	10 (-12)
Vaccinium
angustifolium	120	TI	MC	30	-20 (-28)
ashei	120	TI	MC	30	-10 (-23)
corymbosum	120	TI	MC	30	-20 (-28)
Vitis
labrusca	24+	CM	MC	20-30	-20 (-28)
rotundifolia	24+	CM	MC	20-30	-5 (-21)
vinifera	24+	CM	MC	20-30	-5 (-21)
Ziziphus
jujuba	12-24	TD	R/SK	14-21	-20 (-28)
mauritiana	12-24	TD	R/SK	14-21	20 (-7)

By Ronni Kern, 7 yearsDecember 3, 2016 ago

Plant Propagation Chart by Claude Sweet

This is a very wide table. Please click on the desired plant and then scroll to the right to see all propagation possibilities. It is also possible to sort by column headings.

Plant	Seed	Hardwood Cuttings	Semi-Hardwood Cuttings	Softwood Cuttings	Grafting	Air Layering	Root Cuttings	Offshoots/ Division
Acerola	1	yes	4	5	yes	yes	no	no
Avocado	1,2	5	5	5	4	yes	no	no
Banana	1	no	no	no	no	no	no	4
Capulin Cherry	1,2,4	5	5	5	yes	yes	no	no
Carob	1,2	5	yes	5	yes	yes	no	no
Cherimoya	2	no	no	no	4	no	no	no
Cherry of the Rio Grande	1,2,4	no	5	5	5	5	no	no
Citrus	1,2	no	yes	yes	yes	yes	no	no
Coffee	1.4	5	yes	5	yes	yes	no	no
Feijoa	4	no	yes	6	6	yes	no	no
Fig	1	4	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	no
Grumichama	1,2,4	5	5	5	yes	yes	no	no
Guava	4	5	6	yes	6	yes	no	no
Jaboticaba	1	no	no	no	5	yes	no	no
Jujube	1,2	no	5	5	yes	yes	yes	no
Jujube	2	5	5	5	4.5	yes	6	no
Kei Apple	1,2	5	yes	5	yes	yes	no	no
Kiwi Fruit	1,2,3	yes	yes	yes	4	yes	yes	no
Longan	1,2	no	5	5	yes	4	no	no
Loquat	2	no	5	no	4	yes	no	no
Lychee	1	no	5	yes	yes	4	no	no
Macadamia	1,2	no	yes	yes	4	yes	no	no
Malabar Chestnut	1,4	no	no	no	yes	yes	no	no
Mango	2,4	no	no	no	4	yes	2	no
Mangosteen	1,2	no	5	no	yes	yes	no	no
Miracle Fruit	1	5	4	5	no	yes	no	no
Monstera	1,4	no	yes	4	no	yes	no	no
Mulberry	1,2	4	yes	yes	yes	yes	no	no
Natal Plum	1	5	4	5	yes	yes	no	no
Panama Berry	1,2	5	yes	5	yes	yes	no	no
Papaya	4	5	5	6	yes	no	no	no
Passion Fruit	4	no	yes	yes	yes	yes	2	no
Paw Paw	1,2	no	5	no	yes	yes	no	no
Pepino Dulce	1	5	4	yes	yes	yes	no	no
Persimmon	2,3	no	no	no	4	no	2	no
Pineapple	1	no	4	no	no	no	no	yes
Pineapple	1	no	no	no	no	no	no	4
Pitomba	1,2,4	5	5	5	yes	yes	no	no
Pomegranate	1	4	yes	yes	yes	yes	no	no
Prickly Pear	1	no	4	no	yes	no	no	no
Raisin Tree	1,4	no	5	no	yes	yes	no	no
Star Fruit	1,2	no	5	5	yes	yes	no	no
Sugar Cane	1	yes	4	no	no	no	no	yes
Sunnam Cherry	1,2,4	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	yes	no
Tamarillo	4	5	yes	yes	yes	yes	no	no
Tamarind	1,4	no	5	no	yes	yes	no	no
Tree Tomato	1,4	5	yes	yes	yes	yes	no	no
Wampee	1,2	5	4	5	yes	yes	no	no
White Sapote	1,2	no	no	no	4	no	no	no

1. Used in plant-breeding programs
2. Nursery rootstock production
3. Requires stratification period for germination
4. Common commercial method
5..Very difficult; requires special procedures; variable success
6. Difficult procedure used to increase valuable selections

By Ronni Kern, 7 yearsDecember 3, 2016 ago

Fruit Cultural Data — F

Key
Chill	Hours between 32°F and 45°F, less hours above 65°F
Water	D = dry, W = wet, M = medium

Genus	Species	Common Name	Harm	Kill	Chill	Water	Soil/pH
Feijoa	sellowiana	Feijoa		15°F		D	5.5-7.0
Feronia	limonia	Wood Apple
Ficus	awkeotsang	Chinese Jello
Ficus	carica	Fig	25°F	10°F	<100	D	>7.0
Ficus	pseudapalma	Palm Fig					>6
Flacourtia	indica	Madagascar Plum	30°F	26°F
Flacourtia	inermia	Lovi-Lovi	35°F	32°F
Flacourtia	jangomas	Paniala
Flacourtia	ramontchi	Madagascar Plum		26°F
Flacourtia	rukam	Rukam	30°F	26°F
Flacourtia	sepiaia	Sepiaia
Fortunella	japonica	Marumi Kumquat	27°F	18°F
Fortunella	margarita	Oval (Nagami) Kumquat		18°F
Fortunella	margarita X japonica	Meiwa Kumquat
Fragaria	chiloensis	Sand Strawberry		0°F
Fragaria	moschata	Musk Strawberry		-30°F		W
Fragaria	vesca	Alpine Strawberry		-30°F		W

© Copyright 1995,1997, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc.
Questions or comments? Contact us. [contact-form][contact-field label=’Name’ type=’name’ required=’1’/][contact-field label=’Email’ type=’email’ required=’1’/][contact-field label=’Website’ type=’url’/][contact-field label=’Comment’ type=’textarea’ required=’1’/][/contact-form]

By Ronni Kern, 8 yearsSeptember 6, 2016 ago